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Toronto Life - The Dish

The latest restaurant buzz, including what’s opening, what’s closing, and where to eat, drink and be seen

Weekly Lunch Pick

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Where to eat lunch this week: Canoe

This iconic purveyor of Canadian cuisine—and one of the best restaurants in Toronto—dazzles as much at lunch as it does at dinner

The place: Visiting at midday gives diners the opportunity for a full, day-lit view of the city; the simple decor, wisely, makes no attempt to compete.
The crowd: Food lovers of every ilk, including high-powered execs, political aides, office mavens and a few recognizable faces dressed in everything from suits to jeans.
The deal: Consistently topping Toronto (and Canada) best-of lists, Canoe’s lunchtime menu impresses. Executive chef Anthony Walsh and chef de cuisine John Horne draw on ingredients from coast to coast, from maple B.C. salmon gravlax ($17) to the Canoe classic tourtière ($23) to Yarmouth lobster and chicken pot pie ($26). And like the dinner menu, you can super-size any appetizer to meal-sized portion for an extra $6.
The dish: With a spectacular view of the Toronto Islands (and a holiday long weekend ahead of us), the Toronto Island iced tea ($14)—a potent blend of gin, vodka, rum, tequila, triple sec and cranberry and lemon juices—seems appropriate. A complimentary bread basket is hardly ever worth noting, but with the recent launch of the Oliver and Bonacini Artisan, we’ll make an exception for the warm, chewy pumpkin-pancetta loaf with oh-so-Québécois split pea spread. The applewood-smoked duck breast starter ($17) with spiced walnuts, lingonberry and greens continues the winning streak. A classic sandwich gets the Maritimes treatment with the Canoe lobster clubhouse ($21), stacked with Cumbrae ham and oka, served with a sweet tomato chutney for dipping and carrot-cabbage-tarragon slaw. Dessert is a sweet cavalcade of colours and textures: borage honey and pine nut tart, lingonberries and candied kumquat, all served alongside Mill St. Porter foam (the only disappointment is that it is substituted for the Mill St. Porter and walnut ice cream the menu promises).
The time: 90 minutes.
The cost: $80 with tax, tip and a cappuccino. Good thing that recession’s over.
Canoe, 66 Wellington St. W. (at Bay), Toronto Dominion Centre, 416-364-0054, oliverbonacini.com.

(Image: Matthew Fox)

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