Ceno's venison comes with bones, blueberries
To set up a new Italian restaurant in the epicentre of Yorkville’s Mini Italy—that short stretch of Avenue where L’Unita, Sotto Sotto, Maléna and Spuntini pretty much join hands—is quite a gambit. And it’s a good thing for Ceno, which opened up here last month, because despite pervasive trappings of Italian-ness, this is not exactly an Italian restaurant. It’s close, though: nearly all the staff hail from the motherland (maitre d’ Juri Giannelli uses his mother’s maiden name to prove his authenticity), its moniker is Latin for “to dine” and service is based on the old-world tradition of schooled waiters.
The menu, too, is based on Italian standards, but spruced up with features from other cuisines. The gnocchi ($35), for example, is handmade and doused in crustacean bisque, making it more French than Italian. The Italese carpaccio ($18), is laid out like a standard Caprese salad, but with smoked Canadian salmon instead of tomato. And while venison may be perfectly common in North Italy, it is rarely grilled bone-in ($38) and accompanied by blueberry compote like it is here. “If you served that in Italy, they’d look at you like you’re crazy,” says co-owner Silvio Spano. His executive chef and co-owner Mario Feola should know. He once headed up a restaurant in Italy known as U Pazz (which roughly translates to “the crazy one” in a Neapolitan dialect).
Gustave Dore lithographs are scattered about the place, but otherwise decor is contemporary and simple (halogen lights, crackle glass and a copper bar with a granite top). But the focus is on food and service anyway, with most of the staff having earned their stripes at high-end restaurants around the world. The Ceno team eschews pre-made food items, so nearly everything is made in-house, including bread, charcuterie, pickles and tofu (as part of the cosmopolitan tapas menu). As sous chef Bruno Soleri puts it, “passion is the main ingredient.” And with no shortage of well-established restaurants in the vicinity, Ceno will need as much of that ingredient as it can spare.
Ceno, 137 Avenue Rd. (at Bernard Ave.), 647-352-8822, ceno.ca.
(Images: Jon Sufrin)
This is good to see. I went to this resto a week ago while with friend’s after shopping at Whole Foods. The food was spot-on. I’m a bit of a fussy eater in the sense that i tend to get my food comp’d because often it’s just pretentious or tries to be something it shouldn’t.
The food was great.. i had the wild boar ragu, and with the truffle oil on top it had so much depth of flavour.
It’s also nice to go to a place where the front of house staff are also very genuine and are interested and passionate about the food. They’re so invested in it.
December 16, 2010 at 2:04 pm | by Rob O.You demand to get your food comp’d if it’s pretentious?
December 16, 2010 at 2:17 pm | by AlexNo – he’s pretentious and he complains his way to getting free food.
December 16, 2010 at 2:49 pm | by MarkNo. Having traveled the world and eaten everywhere, I refuse to pay for food that is crappy, and not up to the quality I expect. I only complain if there’s a problem with it.. if there is, I won’t eat it. That was one of my points about the CENO place.. it was just spot on, and the quality was there. It’s one of those places (and i have a few i go to here in TO) where you know you’re going to get some stellar quality cuisine and great service.. as opposed to touristy places which treat you just as a nobody.
December 16, 2010 at 2:55 pm | by RobRob, where else in Toronto do you eat?
December 16, 2010 at 3:40 pm | by ksRob, you sir are a douche.
December 16, 2010 at 4:02 pm | by mattagascarI live really close to this restaurant and went in the other night. I had a fantastic time, great service and the food….it really was amazing. I had the Venison and it was so tasty! The truffled potatoes and the Italian plums were fantastic as we had some tapas to start.
I’d recommend this restaurant to anyone looking for great food, service and atmosphere.
December 16, 2010 at 4:16 pm | by LenaI totally love both the food and the ambiance at this restaurant. Any serious chocoholic must try their “flourless chocolate cake” – probably the closest I will ever get to divinity!
December 16, 2010 at 4:41 pm | by ChrisFrom the service to the food to the aroma, everything is perfect! The salmon was amazing, perfectly cooked and in one of the best sauces I’ve ever tasted. I will definitely be going back here!
December 16, 2010 at 4:53 pm | by RobynDined here the other night and it was a very pleasant surprise! Great atmosphere, attentive staff and the food was really tasty. Would highly recommend the trip! Best risotto I’ve had in a very long time….better than in Italy!
December 16, 2010 at 4:57 pm | by MorganSo great to see Italian classics with a twist! My experience here the other night was second to none and I plan to return very soon! the flourless chocolate cake was a total treat with a nice little “surprise” :)
December 16, 2010 at 4:58 pm | by Steph N.I think that if someone has high standards for food and experienced fine cuisine .. then yes, the restaurant should meet its expectations. Sounds like people are happy with this place.. and no, I don’t that Rob is a douche!
Thank god it’s not a terroni where service is the pits and god forbid you complain. Go CENO! all the best
December 16, 2010 at 5:15 pm | by Beppe BI LOVE this new restaurant! The tapas are superb. The mixtures of flavours are out of this world. The menu is imaginative and varied — including equine tartare! And, yes. No wonder that everyone raved about the chocolate cake. It is unforgettable. I can still close my eyes and savour it. By Louise
December 16, 2010 at 6:41 pm | by Louise CornblumGood job on reviewing this restaurant, Toronto Life…I went to Ceno last Friday and totally agree.
We found the food to be amazing, the service attentive and animated (these guys make you feel like you’re in Italy!!)and they even have live music on weekends, which really made our anniversary dinner even more special!
Looking forward to making my way through the menu!
December 16, 2010 at 10:01 pm | by MarieWell the foods from what I have read seems delish, I must try this place out. I just want a recap on the $35 gnoochi? A lot of places make it home made but thats a tad expensive. Also, Northern Italy fortunate enough to have worked there and game meats are def very delish so that bison does tickle ones fancy. Maybe I can do a Rob and complain. Oh, and bc you eat around the world doesn’t mean you know food and what it should be. Sorry but thats just a ridiculous thing to say. I will take what all has written and go have a wonderful dinner with my significant other….
December 17, 2010 at 8:57 am | by Culinerd