Trend count: Fresh and local? Check. Communal table? Check. Ossington Avenue? Check. Designer lighting? Check (All photos by Karon Liu)
Paul Boehmer’s soon-to-open restaurant is like the cherry on top of the Ossington sundae. The eponymous eatery was one of the last to obtain a restaurant and bar permit before the city imposed a one-year moratorium on new establishments last May. “People around the neighbourhood thought that I was opening a nightclub, but since I told them it wasn’t the case, I haven’t received any complaints,” says the former Stadtländer apprentice, who has also cooked at Rosewater Supper Club, Six Steps and Scaramouche. He expects Boehmer to open in less than a month—about six months later than originally planned.
This new addition only compounds Ossington’s reputation for having the city’s greatest density of quality cooking talent. Across from Boehmer are Corinna Mozo’s Delux and Paramour, the fine-dining French bistro owned by the duo behind Levack Block. The buzz around Teo Paul’s Union is still strong, and hours-long queues at Pizzeria Libretto and Foxley speak to their status as perennial favourites. The neighbourhood’s ethnic roots are evident in the two rival Vietnamese joints (the Golden Turtle and Pho Thien Thanh), and Salt Wine Bar (also one of the last places to sneak in before the ban) is set to throw open its doors any minute.
As for Boehmer, he’s bringing to Ossington his take on Canadian cuisine, with an emphasis on local and seasonal ingredients and the occasional exotic import. “I’ll be making my signature dish, a pan-seared foie gras with blackcurrant purée and maple-glazed mutsu apples,” he says. “I came up with it when I worked at Opus. They still serve it there because people complained when it was taken off the menu.” Other ingredients he’ll have in his kitchen include caribou, sweetbreads, homemade ravioli and Ontario cheeses supplied by Cheese Boutique.
The simple and spacious interior is a collaboration between Boehmer, Roy Banse and furniture designers Brothers Dressler, who created the long communal dining table (“It’s boring to sit by yourself at dinner,” Boehmer says) and giant wooden chandelier dripping with Swarovski crystals. The space’s previous incarnation—a garage—is evident in the concrete floors, exposed-brick walls and incredibly high ceilings (a bonus; Boehmer is six-foot-seven). Elements of Boehmer’s home life are also sprinkled here and there, such as a portrait of him at Stadtländer’s farm and paintings done by his late father.
Next door will be Boehmer’s retail space, set to open later in the spring. Using Dean and Deluca as an example, Boehmer says the shop will have prepared meals, cheese, meats, sauces and vinaigrettes prepared by him or other local chefs. What’s missing from the strip, he says, is a bakery or a shop that draws people during the day.
As for criticism that Ossington will become a gentrified, cookie-cutter party zone like Queen West, Boehmer says the landlords here are devoted to upholding the street’s new-found reputation as a gourmet destination, and are selective about whom they let in. “Everyone has their own niche, so there’s no competition. This is the street for food, and there isn’t another place like this in the city.”
Boehmer, 93 Ossington Ave. (at Humbert St.). Opening soon.
wow that’s the Brothers Dressler Swarovski chandelier from IDS in Paul Boehmer’s eponymous Ossington restaurant http://bit.ly/d6yKdE
This comment was originally posted on Twitter
February 1, 2010 at 1:44 pm | by tatvictoriaIf Mr. Boehmer really wanted to fit into the neighbourhood he would have opened his eyes, looked around and noticed that no one else on the street has such an over the top pretentious restaurant.
February 2, 2010 at 10:19 am | by CatsFYI, I live on Humbert and neither I nor my neighbors can afford “Dean and Deluca ” prices.
Take your Foie Gras back to Yorkville where you belong Mr. Boehmer.
Also, as for communal tables, it’s not “boring” to sit by yourself. Perhaps it’s boring to sit by yourself if you’re Paul Boehmer. Communal tables take up less real estate lets face it Mr. Boehmer is all about making MONEY. He pounced on Ossington because he saw an opportunity to make money. He’s not a man of the neighbourhood, this is my hood and I’ve never seen him anywhere on Ossington.
February 2, 2010 at 10:27 am | by CatsDear Cats,
Please shut up.
Thank you
February 2, 2010 at 12:28 pm | by Chris SWow Cats, are you not thinking clearly. I’d imagine that your neighbours view their homes as major lifetime investments. I believe up scaling of the neighbourhood as a possible incentive for property values increasing, and wonder if they feel as resentful as you. As for dining alone, which I am certain you do often (take a hint bitterness)….can you imagine having a choice, crazy, right. Did you even think through what you were typing or are you just another example of the lowest common denominator with access to the Web and too much time. As for Ossington being YOUR hood, like the man said Shut up.
February 3, 2010 at 6:52 pm | by Ryan ClarkWell, I live in the neighbourhood and welcome all the gentrification. It’s a nice restaurant and not a nightclub! Bring it on! Next, I’d like to see some more shops and services that cater to more of the young families that are moving into the hood.
February 4, 2010 at 12:21 pm | by Tikii live nearby as well and i and 10000% with tiki on this one. bring it on. we need restaurants and shops to make that part of ossington complete. it is so wonderful to have all of these great restaurants on my doorstep and the nightlife, with tending towards douchebaggery, is still pretty hopping.
February 4, 2010 at 2:31 pm | by TDOTFoodiedouchebaggery, you are a poet…
February 4, 2010 at 10:46 pm | by Ryan ClarkWow, ‘lowest common denominator’
February 5, 2010 at 5:04 pm | by CatsI’m actually a teenager who was raised not be afraid to voice my own opinion. My Parents don’t agree with my view either but they are polite enough to agree to disagree and now I will “shut up”
Sorry to those I offended, especially Ryan who is crazy (and scary) angry.
If the Boehmer guys are reading this, here is the secret to community good will: 4-liter bags of organic milk. Not bottles of organic. Not bags of Sealtest. Bags of organic. (Organic eggs also good.)
Right now, the closest place to your spot to get bags of organic milk is the College Metro. Residents of “Gourmet Gulch” can’t actually get their grocery shopping done on foot. This irony is, of course, annoying. And, I hope you can understand, this creates some resentment toward the merchants.
Provide this service, and people might actually come in and buy your luxury vinegars. Otherwise: resentment.
You probably will lose money on the milk: the various under-capitalized variety stores around won’t carry it for this reason. But in your case, that’s not the point: think of the bags of organic milk as a loss-leader or enticement or good-will gesture.
February 6, 2010 at 2:47 pm | by Benj‘What’s missing from the strip, he says, is a bakery or a shop that draws people during the day.’
Somewhat of a disrespectful and ignorant statement considering the long standing Venezia Bakery is across the street at 114 Ossington, packing them in from the early morning hours to early evening. Sure it’s no Dean and Deluca but for many people in the surrounding neighbourhood, it’s a daily go-to spot. I’m looking forward to seeing what the new shop has to offer and no doubt it should do well, but as someone who has the time to make their own vinaigrette, I will probably continue to frequent Venezia far more often.
February 9, 2010 at 5:56 pm | by LobbShaw