Origin
Ear-blistering ’70s rock, kitchen pyrotechnics, Godzilla figurines—they’re all part of the magic at Claudio Aprile’s madhouse of a restaurant
The spectacle of the place is almost reason enough to visit: the theatre of young, on-the-make Bay Streeters four deep at the bar in their shirtsleeves; the gastro-groupies and the merely curious milling around the open kitchen; the shouting, sweating (and occasionally Jäger-sipping) cooks who shoot columns of orange flame and liquid nitrogen smoke out over the racket of the room. The design is determinedly unconventional (witness the chandelier made from 1,600 Godzilla monster figures) and the menu a global collection of greatest hits from one of the most original chefs in the city. Claudio Aprile’s vision, executed here by chef de cuisine Steve Gonzales, is fresh, brash, meticulous and beautifully trashy. There’s yuzu-cured ceviche served with liquid nitro’d corn that sends spumes of frozen smoke from diners’ noses; perfect, hyper-sensual creamed spinach—yes, creamed spinach—with a haunting cardamom and walnut subplot; devilled eggs to scandalize the church ladies; and wokked, then deep-fried squid that tastes as lucid and tense as a half-starved stroll through a sweet shop in Southeast Asia. Aprile mortgaged his young family’s home to build this place, a gamble we should all be glad he took. Origin is occasionally maddening (the Black Sabbath cranked to 11; the hurried service), but it’s also brilliant: an unapologetically big-city restaurant in a town that has been pining for a few more. After an evening here, you leave feeling happy, well-fed and grateful, but most of all—and why should this be too much to ask from a restaurant?—you leave feeling a little awed.
107 King St. E., 416-603-8009. 
You won’t find any relish at The Burger’s Priest! Relish is for hot dogs! (so a little birdy told me)
March 30, 2011 at 10:14 am | by The Burger's Priest's AdvocateQueen Margherita is not a “new” restaurant
March 30, 2011 at 11:33 am | by SueGlad to see these fantastic east end spots get some recognition from what often seems to be a westcentric focus on food.
March 31, 2011 at 9:29 am | by Buffy Ingraham@ burger priest advocate. Are you really upset about being in the top ten toronto life issue cause of relish? Really >>
March 31, 2011 at 9:53 am | by JohnBy “unapologetically big city,” do you mean that we’re supposed to be satisfied with rude and spotty service?
I went there with a group of four on a Friday night and we ordered a few dishes each. They all came all at once, roughly 90 minutes later. That meant several of the hot dishes ended up cold by the time we got them. Plus the wait staff acted like we weren’t even there for the first 90.
On top of that, none of the dishes was memorable. The only positive exception was the cocktails, which were full of surprises. Those, I must say, were impressively inventive.
I would go back for a drink, but not if I was hungry.
March 31, 2011 at 10:41 am | by JDGuu?
March 31, 2011 at 11:22 am | by IgnatzTL I have not heard one good thing about Fabbrica from anyone who has had a meal there. You have no credibility to judge a restaurant in my books.
March 31, 2011 at 11:35 am | by CP48Another slanted article by Chris “Knowitall” Smith. I’m sick to death of hearing about the same restaurants over, and over, and over. Move on.
March 31, 2011 at 12:58 pm | by mattagascarQueen Margherita …hum… Our carry home pizza was dry as a dog-gone bone (we live close by so that was not the prob) No way to order in advance on the weekend they dont answeer the phone. Just go there and wait in the car (there was no way I would brave the huge noisy crowds to have a drink while waiting) Flavorful crust… ah my taste buds do not agree. To each their own.
March 31, 2011 at 1:25 pm | by just the facts ma'amLibretto- (and apparently Queen Margherita if it is “just as good”) will not be getting my hard earned cash a third time (a second try was to rule out a first bad experience). Overpriced, and tasteless- an insult to Napoli onthe whole and any neighbourhood pizza joint. Better to save on a couple of meals there and go have the real thing- because they are nothing like what you wait in line, wait at your table, and pay too much for at Libretto.
March 31, 2011 at 1:45 pm | by kkI have to agree with JD – had two bad experiences in a row at Origin with both food and service after having had two good experiences. In both cases I communicated with the restaurant’s manager about the problems encountered (paid for food that was never received on first visit, had food removed from table while still eating, and a burnt and tasteless burger on second visit)and was left hanging. It was this dismissive treatment which bothers me more than anything. Mistakes happen, yes, but when the manager doesn’t care to ensure customer satisfaction given the chance, that is not a mistake, that to me is arrogance. Hottest restaurant in town? Not for long if that is how they plan to treat their return customers.
March 31, 2011 at 1:48 pm | by MFI love that Dundas is considered “the middle of nowhere”. It just encapsulates the offensive egocentric attitude that so many Torontonians bring with them when they step outside the GTA.
March 31, 2011 at 8:46 pm | by Eliza DoolittleSurprised that SALT wine bar wasn’t a part of the list. I’ve eaten there three times and all were great. Service was a little green but the food, decor and atmosphere were steler.
March 31, 2011 at 11:30 pm | by foodieWent to Queen Margherita Pizza, pizza here is the real deal. Its a great room with lots of character. A real winner in Toronto and by far the best dinning experience in the east end. I think I may have to go back maybe lunch Tomorrow, I aslo have been to Fabbrica and I think Marks best days are behind, or maybe he should focus on overcharging for average food at all his other restos.
April 4, 2011 at 10:49 am | by giraffWHERE IS JAMES CHATTO????
April 5, 2011 at 8:59 pm | by didiTHIS NEW GUY HAS NI IDEA????