Claudio Aprile at Colborne Lane (Photo by Rick O'Brien)
Soft-serve ice cream and oysters seems like an odd pairing, but not to Toronto’s pre-eminent food renegade, Claudio Aprile. Both are slated to be served at his in-the-works restaurant, Origin, which is scheduled to open in June at 107 King Street East. “I think of Origin as the younger, more rebellious brother of Colborne Lane,” says Aprile, noting that the new venture will be less technique oriented, and as much about natural inspiration as ingredient sourcing. He intends for the place to be “a collection” of his many travels, his international training and his taste for both high and low cuisine. There will be a soft-serve machine, for example, because if you ask Aprile, “Dairy Queen’s is the best ice cream on the planet.”
The menu is still in the works—Aprile assures us that it will be until the 11th hour—but it will certainly tackle the raw bar concept. Many do well with the idea, he says, but there are still avenues to be explored with it. As with all his projects, the goal is to stand out on the restaurant scene: “That’s why you won’t find a caesar salad on any menu of mine.” In superb avant-gardist style, Aprile is planning a liquid caesar salad for Origin. Crazy? Perhaps. Aprile’s been called a mad scientist before for his molecular gastronomy approach to cooking, but he takes issue with the title: “Someone who is mad is out of control, and everything I do is about control.”
Even so, it looks like Aprile is loosening the reins for his new restaurant. Origin will share some elements with its more docile sibling—like cutting-edge design and Aprile’s top 40 musical selections (because “everything we do in life should have a soundtrack”)—but there will be no A-list private hideaway akin to Colborne Lane’s. “There is nothing private about Origin,” explains Aprile. “It’s open, honest and extremely interactive.” And good news: it will be more affordable, too.
If Origin’s combination of controlled rebellion, wide-ranging fare and lower prices is a bit perplexing, think of it this way: for Aprile, it’s about “having a bowl of Thai soup that is as detailed and as complex as an eight-course Michelin-starred meal.” Or, if the fancy strikes, a dipped cone.
an affordable aprile meal – id like to see that. hes always worth it, but last time i ate one of his meals i spent a a days pay for a delicious science project served to the beats of cyndi lauper.
February 20, 2009 at 10:46 am | by TDOTFoodieThanks for the very kind comment. Although, I must correct you, I don’t have any Cyndi Lauper beats on my playlist, nor will I ever have. I look forward to seeing you at Origin.
February 20, 2009 at 1:24 pm | by claudio aprileI don’t think the Cyndi Lauper comment was the noteworthy part of the posting.
I am a regular patron of all of Toronto’s fine dining establishments and have no problem paying big money for a great culinary experience – as long as there is value there.
On my one visit to Colborne Lane, I found the room pleasing and the food good – however I paid a tidy sum only to leave hungry. And I am a petite woman. I felt the value for my dollar just wasn’t there and so I have never returned.
I truly do look forward to an ‘affordable’ Aprile meal.
February 20, 2009 at 2:07 pm | by mpyperI have eaten once at Colborne Lane. When I find an amazing food restaurant that offers value and fun eating I am a re-eat customer. I have been to many of Toronto’s “best chefs” restaurants to dine, wether for lunch, dinner or snax.
I have not returned to Colborne Lane, way too pricey!
As a foodie, I find excitement in molecular style cuisine, but it has its place and uses. Flavourless science projects with no particular connection to the plate as a whole are just silly, especially when the technique is executed poorly.
April 15, 2009 at 6:52 pm | by trufflemuncherThink I will read more of Adria’s books and hope he comes out with a scratch and sniff version, before dropping more money into mr. apriles’ coffers.
Hope his new place has an eye on value for the customer while he plays toward new horizons!
[...] there is no mealtime math. Romano’s emphasis is on nostalgic comfort foods. He worked with Claudio Aprile for two years and brings Aprile’s daring, spicy style to his own classic dishes. Expect [...]
May 20, 2009 at 12:26 pm | by Far Niente and Four get new chefs | Aprons & Icons | torontolife.com/dailyI found the food at Colborne Lane to be precious, almost like, why bother eating it, it looked great but substance and balance were skewed, parts of the dishes made no sense,but maybe thats what he is looking to do. Confuse the palate open the mind, something like jimmie hendrix, you have to eat the food between the food. For me the price point was silly, IMHO if your gonna experiment it should be free, when its ready then I will pay for it…..and as for the music well if its a bar then call it a bar..
January 12, 2010 at 7:16 pm | by foodismylife