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Review: Soos brings Malay street food and clever bar snacks to Ossington

Sweet chili chicken wings from Soos on Ossington (Image: Caroline Aksich)

Sweet chili chicken wings (Image: Caroline Aksich)

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Soos 1 star
94 Ossington St., 416-901-7667

This new family-run spot mixes familiar Ossington cues—dangling Edison bulbs, sharing plates and citrusy ­cocktails—with refreshing details, like pops of tropical colour from chili-red chairs and patterned blue wallpaper. The result is a restaurant greater than its parts, one that delivers classic Malaysian dishes alongside clever bar snacks without seeming kitschy. To wit: meaty chicken wings coated in sweet chili sauce and peanuts, and Soos’ ­poutine—a serious new contender for the city’s best—which features crispy hand-cut fries covered in galangal-spiked lamb curry and fresh Quebec curds. Char kway teow is a rice noodle dish with grilled prawns and crunchy bean sprouts, plus terrific house-made sambal, a spicy chili paste with garlic and fish sauce. To finish, spears of pineapple grilled until sticky, served with Greg’s ice cream.

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These restaurants are recommended by our anonymous reviewers. Restaurant bills are paid by Toronto Life; reviews have no connection to advertising. Stars are awarded for food and wine quality, as well as presentation, service, atmosphere, ambition and originality. All of our restaurant reviews can be found at torontolife.com/restaurants/.

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  • MurphySG

    That isn’t Char Kway Teow in the picture, but rather it’s the chicken wings. Char Kway Teow looks a lot different: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Char_kway_teow

  • Jessica Wilson

    How can a new restaurant that serves poutine that is “a serious contender for the city’s best”, not to mention other delights, get only 1 star? Reviewers, don’t be so stingy!

 

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