“I want Luckee to change the way Toronto experiences dim sum. You won’t have to drive all the way to Markham. The lighting won’t be too bright and we’ll have a good wine list.”
—Celeb chef Susur Lee, speaking to Now about the differences between Chinese restaurants in Markham and Luckee, his swank dim-sum palace at the Soho Met, which opens this Friday (that is, April 4). Aside from booze and decor, the Susurized version of dim sum doesn’t sound too different from the classic Cantonese style: it apparently includes staples like har gow and cheung fun rice rolls (albeit glammed up with yuzu and “crispy rice tuiles”), and even traditional point-and-eat trolley service. As for differences, though, we can think of one more: it’s not going to be cheap.