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Beloved taco spot Agave y Aguacate is back in Baldwin Village

Agave-y-Aguacate

Tinga tostada at Agave y Aguacate(Image: Renée Suen)

Mexican-born chef Francisco Alejandri opened a Kensington Market taco stand in 2011, ahead of the current craze. With only a couple of burners and a bar fridge, he made some of the freshest, tastiest and cheapest Mexican street food we ever had. When he closed shop last year, due to the chaos of cooking in the cramped food court, the city issued a collective groan of disappointment. Luckily, Alejandri is back.  This summer, he’s opening up Agave y Aguacate 2.0, a permanent restaurant—this time with a fully equipped kitchen, a proper dining room and a patio—in the space formerly occupied by the short-lived bistro Elle M’a Dit. Alejandri trained at several big-name restaurants, including Sassafraz, Scaramouche and Jamie Kennedy Wine Bar, and his signature ceviches, tostadas and other meticulously prepared Mexican dishes reflect his pedigree.  The restaurant will be the latest of at least six new taquerias in the Baldwin-Kensington area but, if Anthony Bourdain’s rave review of Alejandri’s food is any indication, it’s sure to draw the longest lineups.

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Critic: How tequila-fuelled taquerias like Playa Cabana became the city’s buzziest places to eat—and party

Playa Cabana Cantina

Playa Cabana Cantina in the Junction is the latest in a string of buzzy new taquerias. Right: Tequila is a serious concern at Cantina—this oak-aged Burdeos sells for $90 an ounce

Grand Electric One Star ½
1330 Queen St. W., 416-627-3459

La CarnitaOne Star
501 College St., 416-964-1555

Playa CabanaTwo Stars
111 Dupont St., 416-929-3911

Playa Cabana Cantina Two Stars
2883 Dundas St. W., 647-352-7767


Playa Cabana is on the ground floor of a slim Dupont semi just off Davenport, a convenient pit stop after a wardrobe binge in Yorkville. Regulars call the restaurant “Playa,” like it’s their clubhouse. On weekends, a bouncer poses at the door. There always seems to be a posse of chatty smokers blocking the sidewalk out front, the volume of their squeals in direct proportion to tequila consumed. Last summer, the restaurant’s back patio grew so loud that a group of neighbours from the million-dollar lofts next door called their lawyers and the cops.

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The Dish

Must-Try

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Monday Must-Try: the Bulgogi Torta from A-OK Foods, a Mexican-Korean spin on a fast food classic

Monday Must-Try: A-OK Burger

The fundamental insight behind the addictive Bulgogi Torta from A-OK Foods: few sandwiches are as satisfying as a good, old-fashioned Big Mac. For this cheeky Mexican-Korean creation, chef Chris Jang stuffs sweet grilled rib-eye, a healthy dollop of guacamole and shredded lettuce inside a mayo-slicked Wonder Bread bun, along with a little melted provolone (bracing house pickles are on the side). The resulting sandwich is sweet, salty and fatty, and it melts in your mouth just like the McDonald’s original. Unlike the McDonald’s burger, however, there’s no gastronomical shame associated with ordering it. $7.50

A-OK Foods, 930 Queen St. W., second floor, 647-352-2243, aokfoods.ca, @AOKfoods

The Dish

Trend Watch

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Seven food trends at 2013’s Canadian Restaurant and Foodservices Association show

Each year, we head over to the annual Canadian Restaurant and Foodservices Association show to get a look at the big new food trends coming down the pipe. Of our twelve predictions from last year, some were dead on (Toronto couldn’t get enough of rustic Italian cuisine, street food and Mexican flavours), while others were perhaps premature (like our forecast of wide-spread home sous vide cooking and the death of cupcakes). Below, seven trends we observed at this year’s CRFA show:

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The Dish

New Reviews

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Review: Playa Cabana Cantina, the Junction’s raucous new taco bar

Tacos al pastor at Playa Cabana Cantina (Image: Karolyne Ellacott)

SEE ALL NEW REVIEWS
Playa Cabana Cantina 2 stars½
2883 Dundas St. W., 647-352-7767

playacabana.ca

Proof that the Junction is the next hot neighbourhood: it now has the city’s best tacos.

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The Dish

Openings

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Introducing: Playa Cabana Cantina, the Junction’s kitschy new taco bar

Introducing: Playa Cabana Cantina

(Image: Karolyne Ellacott)

Dave Sidhu’s Playa Cabana Cantina, which opened late last month in the Junction, is Toronto’s latest taco-and-tequila spot. The menu doesn’t deviate much from sister restaurant Playa Cabana in the Annex, but the room is more boisterous, with a steady stream of reggaeton, bachata and salsa beats pumping loudly overhead.

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The Dish

Openings

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Introducing: A-OK Foods, a new ramen and snack bar from the owners of Yours Truly

Introducing: A-OK Foods

(Image: Renée Suen)

Earlier this year, Yours Truly shifted to an all-tasting-menu format, eliminating the popular bar snacks that had helped build the restaurant’s good name. Now, owners Matt CherkasDan Hawkins and Aleem Jamal-Kabani are bringing some of those favourites back at A-OK Foods, a new snack and ramen bar open for lunch and dinner on Queen West between Ursa and County General. The changing menu, led by head chef Chris Jang, features Chinese, Korean and Mexican flavours, but the big draw will no doubt be the chewy house-made ramen noodles, a rarity in Toronto, made on a special machine imported from Korea and then aged for up to three days.

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The Dish

Trend Watch

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Trend We Love: Huitlacoche (a.k.a. corn smut), spotted on Mexican and non-Mexican menus alike

Tacquitos de huitlacoche at Pachuco. The huitlacoche is on the right (Image: Signe Langford)

Huitlacoche (pronounced weet-la-KOH-chay), a corn fungus that’s popular in Mexican food, has two commonly used English names: the gross-sounding “corn smut” and “Mexican truffle,” which over-promises a little on its earthy if not quite transcendent taste. It’s been showing up with increasing frequency on Mexican menus for the last few years; more recently, we’ve noted an uptick in the use of huitlacoche at other types of restaurants too. Here’s where we’ve spotted it:

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The Dish

Restaurants

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Playa Cabana is setting up sister Cantina in the Junction

Dave Sidhu, owner of the Annex’s Playa Cabana, will be opening Playa Cantina at 2883 Dundas West in the coming weeks, bringing authentic Mexican food to the Junction. Sidhu doesn’t plan to deviate too far from what made Cabana successful: he’s sticking to staples like tacos, burritos and a ceviche of the day. But the sister restaurant won’t be a complete clone. There’s a seven-seat raw bar, and a new focus on cocktails (a cantina is a bar, after all). With Cantina joining Indie Alehouse, located across the street, and the otherwise nameless 3030 Dundas West, the once dry Junction is becoming something of a boozy destination. We think Indie Alehouse summed up the emerging atmosphere best in a tweet: “Tequila! And craft beer. What could go wrong?”

The Informer

Features

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Eight portraits of the affluent, educated professionals flocking to Toronto from around the world

Becoming Torontonian

As the global economy fizzles, our city is being inundated with a new cohort of foreign professionals. They’re coming for the stable economy, the chart-topping livability and the promise of a steady job. Meet the new refugees.

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The Dish

Openings

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Introducing: Rebozos on College, a new downtown location for one of the city’s best taco joints

Introducing: Rebozos on College

(Image: Gizelle Lau)

Seven years ago, before tacos had become all-but-inescapable in Toronto, Mexico City native Indalecio Marroquin opened Rebozos, a small taco and pozole joint on Rogers Road. Despite its somewhat out-of-the-way location (for downtowners at least), it soon developed a loyal following and started to attract media attention (we named their beef tongue taco one of the city’s best last year). Now, after two years of trying to find the right space—and a short stint this summer at 214 Augusta, the same market where Agave y Aguacate used to hold courtRebozos has finally secured a downtown location on College Street within spitting distance of the latest taco sensation, La Carnita.

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The Dish

Random Stuff

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Mucho Burrito to sell two burritos laced with the notorious ghost pepper

(Image: Mucho Burrito)

The ghost pepper, a super-spicy Indian hybrid chili also known as naga bhut jolokia, has taken on quasi-mythic status over the last few years. With a Scoville scale rating of over a million (a jalapeño comes in at a mere 5,000), Guinness proclaimed the pepper the hottest in the world in 1997, though it’s arguably since been superseded by the also excellently named Trinidad moruga scorpion. There’s even a mini YouTube genre of people eating the things and then freaking out (large pitchers of milk and faces full of regret figure prominently in these videos). Now, Mucho Burrito, the quick-service Mexican chain from the people behind Extreme Pita and Purblendz, is offering two limited-time-only Ghost Pepper Burritos: the Wimpy, which has ghost pepper bacon, ghost pepper–infused fig marmalade, rice and meat; and the Hotter than Hell, which adds extra-hot salsa and “pure ghost pepper sauce.” Sure, this is a marketing gimmick, but it’s a pretty sweet one (although we suspect it’ll result in more than a few ill-considered challenges between drunken friends). Naturally, the promotion expires on November 2, the Day of the Dead.

The Dish

Restaurants

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Best of the City 2012: Toronto’s top tacos, brunch, pampering service, pickling classes and more

Best of the City, Best of the City 2012

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The Dish

Deathwatch

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Agave y Aguacate closes in Kensington but will be popping up here and there

Agave y Aguacate’s tinga tostada, a 2011 weekly lunch pick (Image: Renée Suen)

After just over a year of delighting Kensington Market with his meticulous Mexican street food, Francisco Alejandri, the affable but intense perfectionist behind Agave y Aguacate, has closed down his stall in the El Gordo food court at 214 Augusta Avenue. In an interview with Post City, Alejandri said that he just couldn’t deal with the chaos and grunginess of the venue (other vendors have also left recently). The market’s owner, Alfonso Segovia, argued that Alejandri’s unpredictable opening hours might have been a bigger reason for Agave y Aguacate’s difficulties in the space, although he also conceded that keeping the tiny market clean and organized is a challenge. In any case, Agave y Aguacate’s many fans need not fear: Alejandri has a few pop-up gigs scheduled. On September 9, he’ll be appearing at the Awestruck food truck awards, and starting next month he’ll be cooking at The Raq on Queen West on Thursdays. He had also been engaged to cook at Harbourfront’s Lifestyle Zone for the next two weekends, but will now be unable to attend. As ever, he’s looking for a more permanent restaurant space. Meanwhile, the Star’s Eat blog is reporting that Seven Lives, a taco concern, will be setting up shop in the El Gordo space. [Post City]

The Dish

Restaurants

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Weekly Lunch Pick: the lamb barbacoa tacos at Playa Cabana

(Image: Renée Suen)

Playa Cabana provides a shady Annex refuge for the throngs of taco lovers in Toronto. Just after it opens at noon, diners fill the buzzing little room or spill into the spacious back patio, some indulging in one of the restaurant’s signature tipples (like a bacon-infused bourbon sour, say), while others dredge their addictive, fresh-fried tortilla chips with guacamole.

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