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Toronto’s top chefs and restaurateurs are gathering in April for Terroir, the city’s annual food summit

René Redzepi will give the closing keynote at Terroir this year (Image: Sam Friedrich)

The Terroir Symposium is an annual event where chefs, restaurateurs and food writers—as well as hardcore foodie hangers-on—gather for talks, demonstrations and workshops centred around the big trends and issues in the culinary world. The star of the show this year, which takes place on April 8, is René Redzepi, the chef at Copenhagen’s celebrated and influential Noma (which has been repeatedly named the best restaurant in the world). Redzepi will be giving the closing keynote talk on this year’s theme, the stories behind food (expect tales of foraging on frigid Danish beaches).

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VIDEO: Watch Jennifer McLagan peel lamb’s testicles with Matty Mattheson

The last time the words “sizzle reel” were deployed on TorontoLife.com, they were in reference to Lake Shore, the ill-advised GTA-based Jersey Shore takeoff that thankfully never got off the ground. This time, we’re happy to say the promotional video is for Odd Bits, a spin-off of Jennifer McLagan’s hit offal cookbook from last year. In the clip, McLagan is shown preparing testicles—yes, testicles—with Parts and Labour’Matty Matheson (after demonstrating to the tattooed chef the proper peeling technique, she actually drops the groaner, “Takes a girl to know how to handle testicles”). McLagan tells us that she shot a pilot for the show this summer, which also features segments at Beast with Scott Vivian (water buffalo tongue, heart and marrow) and Buca with Rob Gentile (blood). Here’s hoping it gets picked up—while we doubt home cooks would actually make too many of the recipes, the demonstrations should make for good, squirm-inducing TV.

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Top Chef Canada recap, episode 12: fashion victims

Jennifer McLagan joins the regular crew at the Shops at Don Mills (Image: Courtesy Top Chef Canada)

TOP CHEF CANADA Season 2 | Episode 12

With only four chefs remaining in the competition, last night’s episode of Top Chef Canada started in style—with Carl Heinrich, David Chrystian, Trevor Bird and Jonathan Korecki suiting up at their condo, accompanied by appropriately gladiatorial music. Over the next 43-odd TV minutes they’d be confronted with a legendarily tough (and foul-mouthed) guest judge, and one of those perplexing elimination challenges that leaves a chef between a rock and a hard place. Find out who makes it to the final and who gets sent packing, below.

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Two Canadian books short-listed for this year’s James Beard Awards

Yesterday, the James Beard Foundation announced the nominees for its 2012 Book Awards, and the list this year includes two Canadian titles. The Art of Living According to Joe Beef by Montrealers Meredith Erickson, Frédéric Morin and David McMillan, which took first place in this year’s Piglet Tournament of Cookbooks, is up for the Cooking from a Professional Point of View category, and Odd Bits, last year’s offal bible by Toronto’s Jennifer McLagan, is up for the Single Subject category. We’d wager the odds on Odd Bits are a bit better than those on Joe Beef, given that the latter is up against Modernist Cuisine (you know, the 2,400-page, 50-pound summation of all known cooking techniques). Also nominated was one-time Toronto son Paul Grieco, who oversaw the wine program at the family restaurant (formal Italian standard bearer La Scala) before decamping to New York, where he’s now the co-owner of Terroir Wine Bar. He’s up for Outstanding Wine, Beer, or Spirits Professional.

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Canada’s butter market sucks, and your pastries are suffering—but there’s hope on the horizon 

The front page of today’s Globe and Mail proclaims Canada “a butter backwater,” telling readers that if they’re struggling to produce perfect pastries, they can blame the country’s butter supply. The problem, according to Chris Nuttall-Smith, is Canada’s highly regulated—and highly homogenized—dairy market. While European bakers rely on fatty, 84 per cent butter to churn out flaky croissants, their Canadian counterparts are forced to make do with a product that’s often less fatty, at only 80 per cent. On top of that, regulations on everything from raw milk production to packaging mean dairy producers are limited in what they can offer consumers. Enter Stirling Creamery, a central Ontario dairy operation that has begun providing bakers—and some independent grocers—with the fatty, barrel-churned butter they lust after. Indeed, a sample batch of fattier croissants cooked up by Nadège Nourian of Nadège apparently had a “deeply buttery resonance” that the ordinary, 80 per cent variety lacked. Of course, when people like Jennifer McLagan are doing things like MacGyvering their butter through cheesecloth in an attempt to reproduce something they might otherwise be able to buy at a grocery store, perhaps it’s time to open up the market just a tad. Read the entire story [Globe and Mail] »

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Top Chef Canada reveals the rather stacked list of guest judges for season two

Remember last year when Chris Cosentino, one of the pioneers of the offal revival, visited Toronto for undisclosed reasons and claimed he could smell Chinatown from three blocks away? Or when Richard Blais, the molecularly inclined winner of Top Chef All-Stars, tweeted about the interesting tasting menu he’d just lunched on in Toronto? Or when Italian food legend Lidia Bastianich dropped in at All the Best Fine Foods? Turns out they weren’t here just because they love us—they’re all guest judges on season two of Top Chef Canada. Other notable judges and tasters include—and let us be clear, this is a bit of a spoiler for those who really like to keep their Top Chef Canada viewing pure—east-coast chef Michael Smith, season one host Thea Andrews (no hard feelings, we guess!), chef-about-town Matty Matheson of Parts and Labour, Leafs assistant captain Colby Armstrong, Susur Lee and his soon-to-be restaurateur sons Kai and Jet Bent-Lee, Toca’s Tom Brodi, Roger Mooking, Top Chef Masters winner Marcus Samuelson, last season’s winner Dale MacKay and his adorable son Ayden, Keisha Chante, Rick the Temp Campanelli, Lorenzo Loseto of George, Charlie’s Burgers mastermind Franco Stalteri, husband-and-wife dynamos Marc Thuet and Biana Zorich, Odd Bits author Jennifer McLagan, Vancouver Indian restaurateur and chef Vikram Vij and assorted competitors from last season, not to mention the somewhat bizarro guests we already told you about, like Alan Thicke and Mike Holmes. (Whew!) Not bad.

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Cookbook fracas: Susur Lee, Marc Thuet and other Toronto foodies displeased as Canadians left out of 100 Emerging Culinary Stars

Shut out: Canadian chefs have been left out of COCO

Backcountry bias: COCO: 100 Emerging Culinary Stars Chosen by 10 of the World’s Greatest Chefs snubs Canuck chefs

The country’s top chefs and food writers are outraged that an upcoming book profiling the world’s 100 most promising chefs does not include any Canadians. The 448-page book titled COCO: 100 Emerging Culinary Stars Chosen by 10 of the World’s Greatest Chefs will also contain recipes by these young, non-Canadian chefs. When Toronto writer Shaun Smith learned that there is still one slot left in the book, he promptly started a letter-writing campaign to the COCO’s British publisher, Phaidon, making the case for squeezing in some CanCon.

The letter (full text below) explains how disappointed the signatories are with the list. It’s an impressive collection of names: 24 of Canada’s top chefs and food writers have thrown their support behind Smith’s campaign, including Susur Lee, Jamie Kennedy, Marc Thuet, Anthony Walsh, Guy Rubino, Anne Yarymowich, Lucy Waverman and Toronto Life’s own James Chatto.

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Canadians take home James Beard Awards

fatThree Canadians earned top prizes this week at the James Beard Foundation Awards, which recognize the stars of the eating and drinking industry. Torontonian Jennifer McLagan snagged the Cookbook of the Year Award for Fat: An Appreciation of a Misunderstood Ingredient, With Recipes—a volume we mention often because of our mutual appreciation of pork, poultry, beef and lamb fat, as well as other gelatinous delicacies.

beyondthegreatwallThe travelling food-writing duo of Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid also walked away with honours. Their sixth book, Beyond the Great Wall: Recipes and Travels in the Other China—a travelogue-cookbook account of culinary culture in China—earned them this year’s International Award. This is the second win for the pair, who took Cookbook of the Year in 1996 for Flatbreads and Flavors: A Baker’s Atlas.

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TV chef Laura Calder moves to Toronto and wants to teach us to pour a great glass of water

Laura Calder comes home to Hogtown

Laura Calder, home in Hogtown

The Food Network’s effervescent face of modern French fare, Laura Calder, is bringing her continental expertise home to Toronto. The long-time expat and host of French Food at Home, who has been stationed in Paris for the better part of a decade, landed back in her native Canada earlier this year with a not-too-shabby James Beard Foundation Award nomination, a new book, and a mission to update the artery-clogging cream-and-butter concept of French gastronomy.

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Bacon, bacon everywhere: Toronto gets reacquainted with a fatty friend

Sweet and savoury: The ??? at Yummy Stuff

Sweet and savoury: a chocolate-oatmeal cupcake with maple-bacon buttercream at Yummy Stuff

During a recent event at the Coupe Space in Leslieville, the author Jennifer McLagan held a discussion of her book Fat: An Appreciation of a Misunderstood Ingredient. Demonstrating the virtues of this long-derided ingredient, she concocted and served a delicious sweet—bacon brittle. It was the latest in a long list of unusual bacon sightings. Torontonians are finding the cured meat everywhere as more and more local shops, bakeries and restaurants rediscover the fatty friend and work it into their wares. Canoe is serving bacon toffee crunch with its date pudding, and The Mercantile on Roncesvalles is stuffing its gift baskets with Vosges bacon chocolate bars, bacon salt and “baconaisse.”

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