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DIY Gourmet: how to make La Palette’s Platonic French onion soup

(Image: Edward Pond)

The secret to La Palette’s peerless French onion soup is chef Brook Kavanagh’s slow-roasted beef bone broth

“French onion soup is a classic for good reason. The ingredients are straight­forward and cheap, but if the broth is done right, the result is deeply flavoured and totally comforting. I like to make my stock from organic shank bones for an intense and meaty taste. I started testing out recipes as a 14-year-old working in a butcher shop—I would take bones home with me—and 15 years later, I’m still tinkering as I make four or five batches of the stuff every day.”

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How to make the Queen and Beaver’s New World cobbler

“Growing up in Tottington, near Manchester, I came across a meaty cobbler practically every day, whether at home, school or down at the pub. This is one of my favourite seasonal dishes. It has everything: the gamy venison, the smokiness of bacon, the wine, brandy and port, all brought together with bittersweet chocolate and crowned with plump, cheesy scones. For our expat patrons, this is familiar cooking. They take ownership of it, the same way they do with the old English china on our tables. We sometimes hear, ‘My mother needs just this one piece to complete her set,’ at which point we say, ‘It’s yours.’ ”—chef Andrew Carter

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How to make Buca’s transcendent eggplant parmigiana

(Photograph by Edward Pond; Illustration by Jack Dylan; )

“Italian food is all about the ingredients. You can’t, for instance, use just any tomato—it’s against the rules. Tomatoes are sacred. Every August, Italian families, mine included, gather to preserve the crop for the year. It’s a serious undertaking—perfect tomatoes are the key to making a perfect sauce. And so I couldn’t put this eggplant parmigiana on Buca’s menu until I’d preserved enough tomatoes for the restaurant. Last spring, I asked my friends John and Barbara Orofino, who live outside of Barrie, to plant 1,000 nova plants (a fleshier, juicier roma hybrid) for me, and they kindly obliged. Here’s what to do.”—Rob Gentile

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How to make Canoe’s braised pork and split peas

Chef Anthony Walsh’s mother taught him how to cook pork so tender you can eat it with a spoon. Here’s his recipe

(Photograph: Edward Pond; Illustration by Jack Dylan)

“I started cooking when I was about 14, largely because I hate doing dishes. I have four brothers and a sister, and growing up, we’d always have friends over. All we’d do is eat, eat, eat. My mother—Ann Coughlin, a good Irish girl—would cook up this amazing pork for the masses; for her, it was like water off a duck’s back. Her conviviality mixed with culinary know-how is what inspires me as a chef to this day. Cooking for someone is one of the most intimate things you can do. You have to take time to take care of your guests. At Canoe, our version of her braised pork is about as comforting as it gets. We’ll never be able to take it off the menu.”

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A sticky situation: how to make Union’s finger-licking ribs

Chef Teo Paul describes his 20-year quest for the perfect ribs

(Photograph: Edward Pond; Illustration: Jack Dylan)

Back in the ’80s, there was this place by our house, near Dupont and Davenport, called Mickey’s Ribs. The kitchen just did ribs to go. It took them an hour to make them, and they were expensive as hell—my dad would only get them as a special treat. They were unbelievably awesome. So for the past 20-odd years, I’ve been trying to recreate them. When I opened Union last year, I put side ribs on the menu and called them sticky ribs, because that’s want I wanted—that amazingly saucy, meaty, sticky goodness. But they weren’t sticky. For three months, the three other chefs and I talked about them every night. We played with the liquid ratios and tried different cooking times. Then, one night, because the oven was full, I put them on the bottom rack. That was the ticket. They worked perfectly. Here’s what you do.”

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How to make Jamie Kennedy’s perch with seasonal nettles

The famed chef gives a maligned weed some locavore love

(Image: Edward Pond)

Stinging nettle is one of the first plants to emerge from the detritus of winter, and as anyone who has been stung by it knows, it’s a nasty weed. But Jamie Kennedy, the city’s top locavore chef, isn’t put off by a few prickles. He forages for it near his home in Prince Edward County and is boldly putting it on the menu at Gilead Bistro this month as a complement to yellow perch. Once cooked, nettles taste like spring: fresh, vital and green. For newbie foragers, Kennedy offers this advice: wear gloves, try High Park, but stay away from the dog park. If all else fails, lemony-tasting fresh sorrel (available at most grocers) is a good substitute.

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Nice rack: how to make Didier Leroy’s unapologetically decadent lamb Wellington

(Photo by Edward Pond)

(Photo by Edward Pond)

Classic French cuisine is enjoying yet another buttery comeback. And no one makes it quite like Didier Leroy, the chef and owner of Didier, this city’s most unapologetically Gallic restaurant. His lamb Wellington is decadence wrapped in more decadence. While he makes his own puff pastry (a process that takes two days), he suggests buying a quality butter-based version. A word to the wise: take the Frenchman’s advice.

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How to make Ceili Cottage’s unspeakably decadent sticky toffee pudding

Pour some sugar on me (Photo by Naomi Finlay)

Pour some sugar on me (Photo by Naomi Finlay)

With its deliberately pocked and pitted decor, the Ceili Cottage looks like it dates back to the days of the Loyalists. But Patrick McMurray’s new gastropub is clearly tapping in to Torontonians’ hankering for all things cheap and soothing. Our favourite dish is chef Kyle Deming’s unspeakably decadent sticky toffee pudding ($6). The place has been hopping since day one. For sweet tooths unable to snag a table, here’s how to make it at home.

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