Anthony Rose

The Dish

Openings

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Introducing: Schmaltz Appetizing, the Jewish fish shop behind Fat Pasha

(Image: Caroline Aksich)

(Image: Caroline Aksich)

Name: Schmaltz Appetizing
Contact Info: 414 Dupont St. (the carriage house behind Fat Pasha), 647-350-4261, schmaltzappetizing.com
Neighbourhood: The Annex
Previously: A kids’ store called Draw Me a Sheep (before that, it was Indian Rice Factory Chai Bar)
Owner: Anthony Rose, who also owns Fat Pasha, Rose and Sons, and Big Crow
Chef: Rose designed the menu, which is being executed by Drake alum Chris Kirn

The Food: An “appetizing” store is a Jewish food shop that sells fish, cream cheese and other foods commonly eaten with bagels. Schmaltz carries all the standard fishy toppings (smoked salmon, gravlax, gefilte fish), as well as some more exotic options, like salmon caviar, carp and smoked Acadian sturgeon. Most items can be ordered on a Kiva’s bagel, including $45 worth of American sturgeon caviar with sliced eggs and sour cream. (Less extravagant sandwiches run from $8 to $14). Fat Pasha’s Mediterranean salads round out the menu, along with a handful of traditional Jewish pastries.

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Food Shops

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Anthony Rose is opening a Jewish “appetizing store” behind Fat Pasha

Screen-shot-2014-10-06-at-8.57

(Image: @TOfoodie/Twitter)

It’s funny how food trends happen. One day everyone’s happily eating tacos, the next they’re sipping Manischewitz cocktails and spending $14 on matzoh-ball soup. Traditional Jewish foods (potato latkes, chopped liver) have shown up on the menus at People’s Eatery in Chinatown, Essen on Dundas West and Anthony Rose’s Annex restaurant Fat Pasha, which serves schmaltz fried rice and babka bread pudding. Now, according to Post City, Rose is extending the Jewish theme with Schmaltz Appetizing, a food store tucked behind Fat Pasha in the little coach house that used to house the Indian Rice Factory’s Chai Bar. For those who don’t know, an “appetizing store” is a Jewish specialty shop that sells all the stuff you’d typically eat with bagels, like smoked salmon, whitefish and cream cheese. The new store is scheduled to open later this month, in the week following Thanksgiving.

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Openings

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Introducing: Fat Pasha, Anthony Rose’s new Middle Eastern hangout

(Image: Jackie Pal)

(Image: Jackie Pal)

Name: Fat Pasha
Contact Info: 414 Dupont St., 647-340-6142, fatpasha.com, @fatpasha
Neighbourhood: The Annex
Owners: Anthony Rose, owner and chef of Rose and Sons and Big Crow
Chef: Kevin Gilmour, formerly of The Drake Hotel

The Food: Big, bold dishes infused with traditional Ashkenazi and Sephardic flavours. Case in point: a towering latke platter topped with salmon pastrami and a whole smoked pickerel head, or a broiled cauliflower stuffed with tahini, pine nuts and halloumi. If hummus is your thing, they have that, too: the creamy chickpea spread comes drizzled with extra virgin olive oil or topped with heaps of lamb shoulder or Swiss chard. For dessert, deep-fried sufganiyot (i.e. doughnuts) are piped with orange-blossom custard and finished with a splash of arak, an intensely anise-flavoured Arabic spirit.

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Recipes

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Recipe: how to make the beefy, gooey, ridiculously indulgent patty melt from Rose and Sons diner

Toronto Life Cookbook Recipe 2013: Patty Melt
Toronto Life Recipes | Entrees
PATTY MELT
By Anthony Rose
Rose and Sons
PATTY MELT
By Anthony Rose
Rose and Sons

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Restaurants

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Coming Soon: Fat Pasha, a Middle Eastern restaurant from Rose and Sons chef Anthony Rose

Fat Pasha

Anthony Rose, the chef and co-owner of Rose and Sons and Big Crow, is opening yet another restaurant on Dupont Avenue. Fat Pasha, which takes over the former Indian Rice Factory space this spring, will be just as casual and rambunctious as Rose’s other two restaurants. Instead of burgers or barbeque, though, the new spot will focus on Middle Eastern cuisine.

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Restaurants

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Anthony Rose is opening a BBQ restaurant behind Rose and Sons later this summer

Anthony Rose is opening a BBQ restaurant behind Rose and Sons later this summer

(Image: Susan Keefe)

An as-yet-unnamed eatery from chef Anthony Rose, who left The Drake Hotel last year to open the first of three new restaurants, is the latest in the wave of smokehouses to open in Toronto in the last year. Rather than the slow-cooked southern barbecue of other recent arrivals, like Aft, Electric Mud BBQ and Marky and Sparky’s Smokehouse, Rose’s new spot is serving quick-grilled meats, including fish, chicken and sausage, plus smoked ribs and wings.  The space, which is tucked behind his elevated Annex greasy spoon Rose and Sons, will have its own kitchen and bar—housed in old shipping crates—but share cook Chris Sanderson with the diner. The new restaurant is scheduled to open in July. [The Grid]

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Recipes

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Prep School: Chef Anthony Rose dishes on three ways to prepare nostalgia-inducing smoked whitefish

Smoked whitefish is all over the midday menu at the Summerhill diner Rose and Sons. Here, Rose talks about why he loves it, and how to make it at home

Anthony Rose | Smoked Whitefish

“At Rose and Sons, I make classic comfort food—things like patty melts, chili and fried chicken—so when I’m planning the menus, I often think back to my childhood favourites. Smoked whitefish brings to mind warm memories of Shabbat brunches with my grandfather. He was amazing: he used to buy the fish whole, then bone it, brine it and smoke it himself. Even now, I still crave it—it’s less fatty than salmon or trout, and it has a nice meaty texture. But don’t worry: you don’t have to smoke your own. Diana’s Seafood on Lawrence near Warden sells quality smoked fish.”

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Restaurants

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The Dish Power Rankings: muddied waters edition

The-Dish-Power-Rankings

Toronto Life’s roundup of the restaurants with the biggest buzz, the longest lineups and the toughest tables to snag.

After four weeks in the top spot, Edulis gets bumped for a red-hot new barbecue restaurant. Meanwhile, OddSeoul continues its steady rise.

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Restaurants

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The Drake names its first-ever corporate executive chef

Drake Hotel New Chef

(Image: Courtesy of the Drake)

Queen West trendsetter the Drake Hotel is bringing in chef Ted Corrado to take over its kitchen. Corrado did stints at Rain, Luce and George before opening C5 Restaurant at the ROM, where he cultivated an ambitious, fussy, high-end style of cooking. At the more comfort-oriented Drake, he’ll be working alongside current head chef Darren Glew, whose work received tepid reviews after Anthony Rose left to open his buzzy new diner Rose and Sons, and overseeing the food program at The Drake Devonshire Inn, which is slated to open in Prince Edward County this summer.

 

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Restaurants

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The Dish Power Rankings: winter deep freeze edition

Toronto Life’s roundup of the restaurants with the biggest buzz, the longest lineups and the toughest tables to snag.

The city’s most powerful restaurants stayed busy despite storms and frigid temperatures. Below, Porzia makes a dramatic climb to second place and a drop-in from a UK food celeb nabs Momofuku Noodle Bar its first appearance on the list.

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Restaurants

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The Dish Power Rankings: The Valentine’s madness edition

Toronto Life’s weekly assessment of the restaurants with the biggest buzz, the longest lineups and the toughest tables to snag.

Edulis’s charming (and tiny) dining room propels the restaurant to the top this week on the strength of its Valentine’s bookings. Lower down, a couple new sold-out tasting menus debut, as does College Street’s next hot brunch destination.

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Restaurants

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The Dish Power Rankings: buzzing diners and taco insurgents

Toronto Life’s weekly assessment of the restaurants with the biggest buzz, the longest lineups and the toughest tables to snag.

The Hoof Raw Bar steals the top spot this week, now that Jen Agg has revived the mega-popular Hoof Café brunch (see last week’s rankings). Over in Parkdale, a new southern Italian restaurant is gaining ground and in The Junction, there’s a new contender for Toronto’s top taco.

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Restaurants

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The Dish Power Rankings: brunches and bans

Toronto Life’s weekly assessment of the restaurants with the biggest buzz, the longest lineups and the toughest tables to snag.

Momofuku Shōtō loses the top spot this week to the perennially buzzy Grove (see last week’s rankings). The Black Hoof drops off the list, but is replaced by the Hoof Raw Bar, which is hosting the return of Toronto’s favourite brunch service circa 2010. Also noteworthy: a new restaurant opens in Parkdale, likely the last until the ban is lifted, and a new tasting menu from one of the city’s top Italian restaurants.

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The Dish

Restaurants

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The Dish Power Rankings: feasting menus and Maple Leafs edition

Toronto Life’s weekly assessment of the restaurants with the biggest buzz, the longest lineups and the toughest tables to snag.

The biggest movement this week was lower down on the list, where over-the-top feasting meals at Catch and Dyne managed to knock off a few restaurants that weren’t quite buzzy enough (see last week’s rankings). Café Boulud took the biggest hit, slipping three places after Jared Bland took the New York superchef’s bistro to task for its lack of ambition in our February issue. Real Sports Bar and Grill makes its entry in the list thanks to the long-awaited return of the Leafs this Saturday.

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The Dish

Restaurants

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The Dish Toronto Restaurant Power Rankings: game on

Toronto is in the middle of a great restaurant boom. Over 150 restaurants opened in the last year alone, most of them hyped on Twitter, deconstructed on blogs (like ours) and ranked in countless year-end roundups. Tracking the ups and downs—the praise and the pans—has never been more entertaining. That’s why we’ve decided to launch our first-ever Power Rankings, a list of the restaurants with the biggest buzz, the longest lineups and toughest tables to snag. Below, the 20 restaurants that are dominating the foodie conversation in Toronto right now.

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