Anthony Rose

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Introducing: Rose and Sons Swan, the Queen West diner with a new lease on life courtesy of Anthony Rose

toronto-restaurants-rose-and-sons-swan-albacore-tuna-beets-lead

(Image: Gabby Frank)

Name: Rose and Sons Swan
Neighbourhood: Trinity Bellwoods
Contact: 892 Queen St. W., 647-348-7926, roseandsonswan.com, @roseandsonsswan
Owner: Anthony Rose (Rose and Sons, Big Crow, Fat Pasha, Schmaltz Appetizing)
Chef: Sonia Marwick (Fat Pasha)

The Food: A menu inspired by Rose’s chef-school years in San Francisco and the five years he spent cooking in Cali. “California cuisine is a very loose title,” says Rose. “What it really means is that it’s just good simple food—not doing a lot to it and using a lot of interesting, good, local purveyors.” So while you might find Frito Pie at Big Crow, the dishes at Swan are on the lighter, fresher side and veggies play a bigger role. (To chef Sonia’s chagrin, Rose has given her a new nickname: Swan-ia.)

The Drinks: Four signature cocktails, a selection of bottled and canned beer and a fairly long wine list featuring more than just California grapes.

The Space: “It looks like it did before, but different,” says Rose, who was in Mexico on a yoga retreat when the Queen West diner went out of business. “I wasn’t supposed to be checking my email, but I did and saw that Swan had closed. By the time I got here I was like 30th in line—everyone in the city had looked at this place.” Refurbished booths, a record player, some flash art by local graffiti artists and a lone surfboard distinguish this version of Swan from the previous one. And there’s a park-facing patio in the back now, which Rose says is perfect for white squirrel sightings.

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Anthony Rose’s Bar Begonia will open on Dupont

(Image: Daniel Neuhaus)

(Image: Daniel Neuhaus)

Anthony Rose’sixth spot, Bar Begonia, will be located at 252 Dupont Street just steps away from his trio of Annex eateries. The strangely shaped building has been empty since 2005 when its former occupant, a bar called Nite-Caps, closed. “I feel like every restaurateur has taken a tour through it because it’s said ‘For Lease’ on it forever and ever and ever,” says Rose, who has already started working on getting the place in shape for a November opening.

Rose says Bar Begonia will be a Parisian-style cocktail bar—with a dose of Brooklyn for good measure, of course. “Parisian to me sometimes can be a little too refined, even the dirty places,” says Rose. “I find that Brooklyn has a lot of French influence to it, but it’s a little more country. And I lived in New York for about five years, so I definitely have a lot of that in me.” Although the building itself is on the small side, the real party will be in the back: the current parking lot is being converted into a grassy backyard oasis, complete with an outdoor grill (“à la Francis Mallman,” says Rose) and—in the spirit of reviving old-timey lawn games—the potential for tetherball or ga-ga courts.

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Ten things Anthony Rose can’t live without

The unstoppable Toronto chef (of Rose and Sons, Big Crow and Fat Pasha fame) has a new restaurant opening this month on Queen West. Here, the 10 things he can’t live without

the-list-anthony-rose
1
My sugar fix
I try to follow a paleo diet—that means very little dairy, gluten or sugar. But I make an exception for dark chocolate from Soma. I like to dip it in peanut butter.

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Restaurants

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Queen West is getting a Rose and Sons

(Image: Rebecca Fleming)

(Image: Rebecca Fleming)

Anthony Rose is at it again, but this time he’s moving away from the empire he’s set up on Dupont. His new spot will be in the space left empty by Swan Restaurant. Just as he did with the 40-year-old People’s Diner, Rose is taking the iconic Queen West spot and making it his own, while leaving the old name intact (it will now be Swan by Rose and Sons). “It’s essentially got the same feeling as Rose and Sons,” says Rose. “You walk in, it’s old and it’s a little bit falling apart, but it’s just perfect.” The food will be a “lighter, more feminine” version of what’s on offer at his Dupont diner, and it will be more “California-driven,” whatever that means. “That’s where my roots are,” Rose says, “I learned to cook in San Francisco, so it’ll be a little San Franciso, California-dreaming kind of diner.” How does that translate on the menu? “Like, delicious.” The new Swan is scheduled to open this summer, which is great timing for the restaurant’s one new addition: a Trinity Bellwoods–facing patio out back. This isn’t the last project for Rose, though: he’s already in the midst of opening yet another spot. Bar Begonia will find a home on Dupont (of course) and will be within walking distance of Rose’s existing “holy trinity” of restaurants.

The Dish

Openings

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Introducing: Schmaltz Appetizing, the Jewish fish shop behind Fat Pasha

(Image: Caroline Aksich)

(Image: Caroline Aksich)

Name: Schmaltz Appetizing
Contact Info: 414 Dupont St. (the carriage house behind Fat Pasha), 647-350-4261, schmaltzappetizing.com
Neighbourhood: The Annex
Previously: A kids’ store called Draw Me a Sheep (before that, it was Indian Rice Factory Chai Bar)
Owner: Anthony Rose, who also owns Fat Pasha, Rose and Sons, and Big Crow
Chef: Rose designed the menu, which is being executed by Drake alum Chris Kirn

The Food: An “appetizing” store is a Jewish food shop that sells fish, cream cheese and other foods commonly eaten with bagels. Schmaltz carries all the standard fishy toppings (smoked salmon, gravlax, gefilte fish), as well as some more exotic options, like salmon caviar, carp and smoked Acadian sturgeon. Most items can be ordered on a Kiva’s bagel, including $45 worth of American sturgeon caviar with sliced eggs and sour cream. (Less extravagant sandwiches run from $8 to $14). Fat Pasha’s Mediterranean salads round out the menu, along with a handful of traditional Jewish pastries.

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Anthony Rose is opening a Jewish “appetizing store” behind Fat Pasha

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(Image: @TOfoodie/Twitter)

It’s funny how food trends happen. One day everyone’s happily eating tacos, the next they’re sipping Manischewitz cocktails and spending $14 on matzoh-ball soup. Traditional Jewish foods (potato latkes, chopped liver) have shown up on the menus at People’s Eatery in Chinatown, Essen on Dundas West and Anthony Rose’s Annex restaurant Fat Pasha, which serves schmaltz fried rice and babka bread pudding. Now, according to Post City, Rose is extending the Jewish theme with Schmaltz Appetizing, a food store tucked behind Fat Pasha in the little coach house that used to house the Indian Rice Factory’s Chai Bar. For those who don’t know, an “appetizing store” is a Jewish specialty shop that sells all the stuff you’d typically eat with bagels, like smoked salmon, whitefish and cream cheese. The new store is scheduled to open later this month, in the week following Thanksgiving.

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Introducing: Fat Pasha, Anthony Rose’s new Middle Eastern hangout

(Image: Jackie Pal)

(Image: Jackie Pal)

Name: Fat Pasha
Contact Info: 414 Dupont St., 647-340-6142, fatpasha.com, @fatpasha
Neighbourhood: The Annex
Owners: Anthony Rose, owner and chef of Rose and Sons and Big Crow
Chef: Kevin Gilmour, formerly of The Drake Hotel

The Food: Big, bold dishes infused with traditional Ashkenazi and Sephardic flavours. Case in point: a towering latke platter topped with salmon pastrami and a whole smoked pickerel head, or a broiled cauliflower stuffed with tahini, pine nuts and halloumi. If hummus is your thing, they have that, too: the creamy chickpea spread comes drizzled with extra virgin olive oil or topped with heaps of lamb shoulder or Swiss chard. For dessert, deep-fried sufganiyot (i.e. doughnuts) are piped with orange-blossom custard and finished with a splash of arak, an intensely anise-flavoured Arabic spirit.

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Recipes

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Recipe: how to make the beefy, gooey, ridiculously indulgent patty melt from Rose and Sons diner

Toronto Life Cookbook Recipe 2013: Patty Melt
Toronto Life Recipes | Entrees
PATTY MELT
By Anthony Rose
Rose and Sons
PATTY MELT
By Anthony Rose
Rose and Sons

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Coming Soon: Fat Pasha, a Middle Eastern restaurant from Rose and Sons chef Anthony Rose

Fat Pasha

Anthony Rose, the chef and co-owner of Rose and Sons and Big Crow, is opening yet another restaurant on Dupont Avenue. Fat Pasha, which takes over the former Indian Rice Factory space this spring, will be just as casual and rambunctious as Rose’s other two restaurants. Instead of burgers or barbeque, though, the new spot will focus on Middle Eastern cuisine.

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Anthony Rose is opening a BBQ restaurant behind Rose and Sons later this summer

Anthony Rose is opening a BBQ restaurant behind Rose and Sons later this summer

(Image: Susan Keefe)

An as-yet-unnamed eatery from chef Anthony Rose, who left The Drake Hotel last year to open the first of three new restaurants, is the latest in the wave of smokehouses to open in Toronto in the last year. Rather than the slow-cooked southern barbecue of other recent arrivals, like Aft, Electric Mud BBQ and Marky and Sparky’s Smokehouse, Rose’s new spot is serving quick-grilled meats, including fish, chicken and sausage, plus smoked ribs and wings.  The space, which is tucked behind his elevated Annex greasy spoon Rose and Sons, will have its own kitchen and bar—housed in old shipping crates—but share cook Chris Sanderson with the diner. The new restaurant is scheduled to open in July. [The Grid]

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Prep School: Chef Anthony Rose dishes on three ways to prepare nostalgia-inducing smoked whitefish

Smoked whitefish is all over the midday menu at the Summerhill diner Rose and Sons. Here, Rose talks about why he loves it, and how to make it at home

Anthony Rose | Smoked Whitefish

“At Rose and Sons, I make classic comfort food—things like patty melts, chili and fried chicken—so when I’m planning the menus, I often think back to my childhood favourites. Smoked whitefish brings to mind warm memories of Shabbat brunches with my grandfather. He was amazing: he used to buy the fish whole, then bone it, brine it and smoke it himself. Even now, I still crave it—it’s less fatty than salmon or trout, and it has a nice meaty texture. But don’t worry: you don’t have to smoke your own. Diana’s Seafood on Lawrence near Warden sells quality smoked fish.”

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The Dish Power Rankings: muddied waters edition

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Toronto Life’s roundup of the restaurants with the biggest buzz, the longest lineups and the toughest tables to snag.

After four weeks in the top spot, Edulis gets bumped for a red-hot new barbecue restaurant. Meanwhile, OddSeoul continues its steady rise.

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The Drake names its first-ever corporate executive chef

Drake Hotel New Chef

(Image: Courtesy of the Drake)

Queen West trendsetter the Drake Hotel is bringing in chef Ted Corrado to take over its kitchen. Corrado did stints at Rain, Luce and George before opening C5 Restaurant at the ROM, where he cultivated an ambitious, fussy, high-end style of cooking. At the more comfort-oriented Drake, he’ll be working alongside current head chef Darren Glew, whose work received tepid reviews after Anthony Rose left to open his buzzy new diner Rose and Sons, and overseeing the food program at The Drake Devonshire Inn, which is slated to open in Prince Edward County this summer.

 

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The Dish Power Rankings: winter deep freeze edition

Toronto Life’s roundup of the restaurants with the biggest buzz, the longest lineups and the toughest tables to snag.

The city’s most powerful restaurants stayed busy despite storms and frigid temperatures. Below, Porzia makes a dramatic climb to second place and a drop-in from a UK food celeb nabs Momofuku Noodle Bar its first appearance on the list.

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The Dish Power Rankings: The Valentine’s madness edition

Toronto Life’s weekly assessment of the restaurants with the biggest buzz, the longest lineups and the toughest tables to snag.

Edulis’s charming (and tiny) dining room propels the restaurant to the top this week on the strength of its Valentine’s bookings. Lower down, a couple new sold-out tasting menus debut, as does College Street’s next hot brunch destination.

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