Byzantium
[?]
416-922-3859
At the corner of Church and Wellesley, Byzantium, the self-proclaimed “grand matriarch of the gay village,” oozes both sumptuous fabulosity and careful refinement. The menu is flamboyant and ambitious (ostrich, kangaroo), but the kitchen’s best plates employ the KISS principle. To start, a seasonal salad of lemon grass–poached octopus is a riot of colour and fresh flavours, with substantial chunks of tender octopus dotting a nest of arugula, shaved fennel, red and yellow julienne peppers and cherry tomatoes. Signature steamed sesame chicken dumplings are disappointing; they’re beautifully plated on Chinese soup spoons with a garnish of zingy chili cucumbers, but the dumplings are gummy, and the filling lacks any discernible flavour. Mains are exuberant: a filet of kangaroo is perfectly rare, the deep red of the lean meat foreshadowing its sweet, earthy taste. Mains $13–$28.
Description
Category Features
Outdoor Dining: Yes
Price Range: Dinner for $60 - $90
Editor's Star Rating: 2
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