The Merrill Inn
[?]
613-476-7451
w: http://www.merrillinn.com/
Sometimes just the sight of a restaurant builds anticipation. In this case, a grand old Victorian manor with crisp white gingerbread, surrounded by pristine green lawns. Although the tiny, 20-seat room is quaint and cheery, in shades of mint, forest and avocado green, some of the dishes feel dated. Proteins are plated with the same accompaniments of mixed steamed veggies (we expect more from chef Michael Sullivan, whose pedigree includes Auberge du Pommier, The Fifth and Opus). A crispy, delicious wedge of potato cake keeps three juicy, pink Ontario lamb chops and a length of merguez sausage company, and spaetzle hides under two thin rounds of doughy, soggy yet flavourful breaded veal. Gnocchi in dilled cream are more like fluffy, light quenelles of poached ricotta. Braised calamari is tender enough, but the vinaigrette in which it sits is eye-wateringly acidic. The little touches—herbed olives, warm-from-the-oven bread and beet spread are tasty nibbles—are appreciated, but service is friendly yet forgetful (water, a dessert menu, coffee and tea are not offered). Desserts—baked Alaska with local gelato from the Bean Counter and ginger-chocolate brûlée—could have been great, if the execution had been there. Instead, there was no brûlée topping a bland custard, and a gorgeous, golden, piped meringue could not stem the tide of melting gelato. A fairly extensive wine list. Mains $25–$36.
Description
Category Features
Vegetarian: Yes
Outdoor Dining: Yes
Price Range: Dinner for more than $130
Editor's Star Rating: 1
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