Hillebrand Winery
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905-468-7123, ext. 3
On a summery Saturday evening, the lobby and bar at this Niagara matriarch are abuzz with perfectly coiffed out-of-towners and wedding guests staying at the hotel. The restaurant, however, is a calm oasis highlighted by a shady terrace with a breathtaking view of the vineyards. Fine dining is alive and well in chef Frank Dodds’s seasonal-focused kitchen. In a gorgeous appetizer, salmon is cured in icewine, smoked over vine cuttings, sliced like sashimi and paired with dill ice cream, quail eggs and Lake Abitibi caviar. Crisp-skinned, juicy organic chicken is stuffed with blood sausage and sided by a cylinder of boneless thigh wrapped in salty smoked bacon. Only a cold roulade of spring salmon misses the mark: the aggressive dill, tarragon and parsley crust bullies the perfectly poached fish, and the herbed horseradish goat cheese alongside adds nothing to the plate. Michel Cluizel 64 per cent cocoa is the star of a superb chocolate mousse cake with rich chocolate ice cream and velvety chocolate pâté. The selection of in-house wines by the glass is staggering, offering an array of back vintages, winery-only gems and Trius Grand Red, the winery’s magnificent cab-sauv. First-class service. Mains $31–$40.
Description
Category Features
Wheelchair Accessible: Yes
Vegetarian: Yes
Brunch: Yes
Outdoor Dining: Yes
Price Range: Dinner for $90 - $130
Editor's Star Rating: 2.5
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