Omi
[?]
416-920-8991
The second incarnation of John Lee’s sushi temple, which opened in 2008, is far more stylish and comfortable than the dark, aesthetically challenged Boystown original. However, Lee has given the sushi duties to chef Patrick Wang, so the place lacks the infectious revelry Lee brings to the sushi counter. Regulars often opt for the surprise omakase menu, but it seems out of place in a room this casual, and the progression lacks balance, leaning too hard on rich fish and shellfish and not nearly enough on vegetables. The best courses are the simplest: exquisite wild salmon sashimi is lightly dressed with nothing more than olive oil, sea salt and Japanese hot pepper, and grilled hamachi collar offers nuggets of moist flesh beneath its crisp, smoky exterior. The textural contrast is far less harmonious on a finger of catfish wrapped in a thick cloak of fried sweet potato shoestrings. You would do better to start with a few appetizers and finish with a terrific sushi platter that might include a gaspingly good hamachi nigiri or sweet tempura lobster tail wrapped in paper-thin cucumber. Mains $17–$20.
Description
Category Features
Vegetarian: Yes
Price Range: Dinner for $60 - $90
Editor's Star Rating: 1.5
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African, Seafood, Hungarian, Korean, Colombian,