Hiro Sushi
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416-304-0550
Chef Hiro Yoshida is a warm and affable character behind the counter at his 21-year-old sushi restaurant. His skills and masterful confidence shine through in almost everything he prepares. That said, the dining room’s dull and dated decor, with its grimy chairs and industrial tile flooring, don’t cut it in a place where the omakase for two costs $140. Still, that omakase brings a lineup of treasures. The requisite soup course finds meaty and tender smoked Arctic char striking a perfect fatty balance against a light dashi broth. A single, massive Hornby Island lambertini oyster, sliced and baked in its half-shell, is just barely cooked and topped with egg yolk and sweet white miso and sesame paste. Served with delicate crunchy asparagus, wakame and a touch of sesame paste, it’s a brilliant and luscious riff on oysters Rockefeller. Barbecued mackerel and spring vegetables are wrapped in bamboo shoots, bound by a bamboo frond and laid on top of a single bamboo leaf. Inside the gorgeous package, the smoky fish is just warm enough to contrast with the cool bamboo. Drizzled with white miso, the temperatures, tastes and textures are delightful. Impeccable nigiri sushi includes sardines with scallions and ginger, luscious house-smoked salmon and perfectly melting smoked butterfish. Only the kappa maki disappoints, with overpowering wasabi. Dessert includes a sweet rice dumpling filled with red bean paste and strawberry compote. Excellent saki and soju selection. Servers are friendly but brusque at times. Mains $25–$35.
Description
Category Features
Vegetarian: Yes
Price Range: Dinner for $90 - $130
Editor's Star Rating: 2.5
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Japanese, Diner, Brazilian, Continental, Other European,