Maléna
[?]
416-964-0606
w: http://www.malena120.ca
When this Av-and-Dav hot spot first opened, it was known more for its scene than its food. That changed last year when the menu was overhauled to focus less on Ionian seafood and more on refined Italian. The food is, with rare exception, excellent. To start, meaty grilled octopus has a nice char and comes in tangy, house-made pancetta and tomato conserva; the braised chickpeas studding the sauce are just tender enough. For mains, the crispy-skinned brick chicken, served with a smear of mustardy mashed potatoes, is succulent and juicy, but the 63-degree egg yolk that it comes with is a somewhat goopy, alien inclusion. A fillet of Arctic char with rich pork belly and puckery sautéed cabbage is a simple, well-composed dish; the fish is perfectly cooked, moist and meltingly soft (the sauerkraut is a bit too salty, but it pairs nicely with the mildly seasoned fish). The unsophisticated dark chocolate panna cotta tastes like a cheap, chalky Jell-O pudding cup. The service lacks polish and expertise. Mains $18–$34.
Profile by Client (Description)
Category Features
Vegetarian: Yes
Bring your own bottle: Yes
Outdoor Dining: Yes
Price Range: Dinner for $90 - $130
Editor's Star Rating: 2
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Hotel, Out of Town, Uruguayan, Argentinian, Other Latin,