Il Mulino
[?]
416-780-1173
w: http://www.ilmulinorestaurant.com/
This Forest Hill favourite is an anachronism in an age when fine dining has become so dressed down. Lights are set low, linens are plush, and the noise level on a busy Saturday night allows for civilized conversation. Owner Oscar Valverde and his staff work the floor as a team, greeting every customer like a regular and disarming them with warmth, confidence and good old-fashioned charm. The menu is like an artifact from a fancy, ’90s-era Italian restaurant, but that’s not necessarily a bad thing. Beet salad is accessorized with peppery rocket, tangy chèvre and a funky drizzle of truffle oil, though the bland roots could use more salt and a sharper kick of balsamic. Pastas are terrific. Well-timed shrimp, scallops, mussels and squid are perched in nest of al dente linguine with a garlicky tomato sauce that tastes of both summer and the sea. Focusing on big slabs of simply sauced proteins, most entrées could tip over Fred Flintstone’s car. Pan-seared veal scaloppine is napped with a plate-licking emulsion of sweet marsala, earthy mushrooms, veal stock and butter. The legendary cellar has an uncommonly deep roster of well-aged Italian heavy hitters, though even the cheapest wine on the list is poured into opulent Riedel stemware. Mains $17–$38.
Description
Category Features
Vegetarian: Yes
Bring your own bottle: Yes
Price Range: Dinner for $90 - $130
Editor's Star Rating: 2.5
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American, Southeast Asian, Cambodian, Kosher, Vegetarian,