Fabbrica
[?]
416-391-0307
w: http://www.fabbrica.ca/
On the surface, Mark McEwan has nailed the modern urban trattoria. Indie bands provide the soundtrack, wine bottles and slabs of prosciutto double as decor, and Neapolitan pizzas are wood-fired in an open kitchen. Superbly rich dishes, like a ricotta polenta with pig’s tail, are on par with the city’s best boot-based offerings, while a beautifully charred smoked bacon chop demonstrates the kitchen’s technical proficiency. But Fabbrica, on the whole, feels like a simulacrum, a corporate product that gets the details right but lacks the soul of its smaller, downtown inspirations. And frankly, it doesn’t even get all the details right: a $20 meatball pizza is more Pizza Pizza than Terroni, complete with ketchupy tomato sauce (although the crust is perfect). Ricotta gnocchi are beautifully light, but the tomato and basil sauce is too sweet. Service is sharp but perfunctory and, at its worst, rushed. The wine list is accessible, the beers over-priced. Mains $16–$30.
Profile by Client (Description)
Category Features
Wheelchair Accessible: Yes
Vegetarian: Yes
Outdoor Dining: Yes
Price Range: Dinner for $90 - $130
Editor's Star Rating: 1
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