Biagio
[?]
416-366-4040
There is nothing trendy or modern about this Italian stalwart at the eastern edge of the financial district, but it’s a rare surviving example of professional, Old World service and French-inflected, high-Italian cooking. The room is bright and linened. The back patio, centred around a burbling fountain, is one of the nicest in town, and half of the crowd on a Thursday night is composed of regulars, including Edward Greenspan, the defence lawyer, who’s here so often he might as well be the mascot. The menu is standard stuff: fritti di pescatore made up of good, battered calamari rings, sweet cod and decent prawns, sided with faintly spicy red sauce; a serviceable lobster bisque; and very good homemade pastas, including a yellow and green fettuccine sauced in cream, tender-crisp peas, prosciutto and mushrooms. A few of the mains are disappointing. The crab-stuffed, pancetta-wrapped tiger prawns are over-salted, and the demi-glace blanketing the veal medallions is far too salty for the delicate meat. One of the city’s best Italian wine lists: it goes deep into old nebbiolo and Tuscans in particular, many with reasonable markups. Mains $18–$42.
Description
Category Features
Wheelchair Accessible: Yes
Vegetarian: Yes
Brunch: Yes
Outdoor Dining: Yes
Price Range: Dinner for $90 - $130
Editor's Star Rating: 1.5
Related
Related Listings
Related Tags
Japanese, Thai, Mediterranean, Ethiopian, Mexican,