The Drake Hotel
[?]
416-531-5042
w: http://www.thedrakehotel.ca/
Out on the edge of Queen West, where trends cycle from ironically cool to lame in just under a week, The Drake, at seven years old, seems quaintly retro. The dining room, Arcade Fire thrumming over the din of conversation, hasn’t noticeably evolved. Clad in flannel and jeggings, art tarts nibble edamame while adventurous boomers swirl chablis and pine for Dylan. Flush from the success of Drake BBQ, chef Anthony Rose has moved the menu toward Asian cuisine with influences from the American South. Schizophrenic though this approach may sound, the food is surprisingly good. Roast pumpkin flatbread is a gooey, rich mess that we’d like to have delivered to our doors on hangover Sundays. The house-baked focaccia is light and airy, and topped with wild mushrooms, pumpkin purée and smoked mozzarella. Main courses are large. Witness the lamb shank, as big as a child’s forearm, accompanied by a dense jalapeño and cheddar biscuit (oddly, sliced in half and pre-buttered) and gloopy black bean chili. Alone, the plate’s elements are strong, but together, the richness of the beans and the lamb compete with one another. In a shallow bowl, three whopping sea scallops are seared to perfection and topped with chive gremolata. Unfortunately, they’re wasted when plunked in a stew of over-salty sauerkraut and ricotta dumplings. Servers are genuinely friendly—rare in this neighbourhood. Mains $18–$32.
Description
Category Features
Wheelchair Accessible: Yes
Vegetarian: Yes
Brunch: Yes
Bring your own bottle: Yes
Kitchen open past midnight on weekends: Yes
Outdoor Dining: Yes
Price Range: Dinner for $60 - $90
Editor's Star Rating: 2
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