Auberge du Pommier
[?]
416-222-2220
w: http://www.oliverbonacini.com
Once the jewel in the Oliver & Bonacini Group’s crown, this quaint, cottagey French restaurant seems to have been left to fade while the company focuses on dominating Toronto’s gourmet casual scene. Although it still maintains many of the trappings of fine dining—pressed linen, delicate stemware—the details are lacking. A rich chestnut and pheasant velouté (the sauce is poured into the bowl tableside) shows some of the old finesse, but a flabby hunk of roasted foie gras that oozes fat from another appetizer isn’t helped by an overly sweet red cabbage consommé. While a tender, rare loin of venison is smartly paired with honey-glazed roots and crispy polenta, the veal is let down by a stale langoustine farci. A fine lemon and olive oil cake with sweet corn curd shows there’s life in the old girl yet. While entrées approach $60, the thorough, international wine list offers good value. Mains $38–$59.
Profile by Client (Description)
Category Features
Bring your own bottle: Yes
Outdoor Dining: Yes
Price Range: Dinner for more than $130
Editor's Star Rating: 2.5
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