Scaramouche
[?]
416-961-8011
w: http://www.scaramoucherestaurant.com/
The big 3-1. For a person, it’s the age when you first notice a little wear and tear; for a restaurant, it’s a milestone of Yoda-like longevity, yet this midtown landmark wears its age with remarkable grace. The dining room feels a little worn—the jaw-dropping view of the downtown skyline distracts from the slightly sun-faded commedia dell’arte posters and the niggling feeling that the last revamp occurred during this grand dame’s adolescence—but Keith Froggett’s contemporary spin on French cuisine remains inspired despite a 28-year run in the kitchen that might stultify a lesser talent. On a recent visit, tender ravioli plumped with tarragon-flecked lobster nestled on a creamy cauliflower purée with honey-kissed mushrooms deftly balancing bold, earthy tones with fragile herb and shellfish notes. Juicy ballotines of rabbit loin in a blanket of smoky bacon elicit an immediate “Oh my God. You have to try this” exchange of forks between dining companions. The signature coconut cream pie is light and fluffy, with toasty tropical notes and shards of white chocolate. The crust is unfortunately tough, though. The wine list is sophisticated, diverse and laudably affordable. Thoughtful, well-paced service. Mains $29–$47.
Description
Category Features
Wheelchair Accessible: Yes
Vegetarian: Yes
Bring your own bottle: Yes
Price Range: Dinner for more than $130
Editor's Star Rating: 3.5
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International, Midday, Out of Town, Indian and Sri Lankan, Thai,