Pangaea
[?]
416-920-2323
w: http://www.pangaearestaurant.com
e: info@pangaearestaurant.com
Backed by a loyal fan base of old money, owners Martin Kouprie (who’s also the chef) and Peter Geary have survived the recent fine-dining cull that has seen white linen tablecloths replaced with red-checkered plastic across the city. After 15 years, however, it’s time to spruce up the dated decor, which is out of sync with the $40 entrées. Kouprie and right-hand man Derek Bendig are pushing the DIY ethic into new territory with an in-house cheese-making program and plans to mill their own flour for breads. A member of Ocean Wise, Kouprie uses only sustainable seafood, including a pan-seared puck of sweet Dungeness crab with creamy avocado, lightly pickled fennel and ginger-zinged tomato jam. Though the cake isn’t crispy, it’s pure crustaceous pleasure. Duck breast is pitch perfect, the skin crackling, the rosy flesh medium-rare and the jus intensely flavoured; roasted heirloom carrots, a lacy rösti cake and barely wilted Asian greens back the duck beautifully. Pastry chef Colen Quinn jazzes up ubiquitous white chocolate panna cotta by sandwiching the satiny custard between moist discs of pistachio cake with poached rhubarb and rhubarb sorbet. There is a decent selection of wine in the $50 range, but the deep cellar favours those who can afford three-figure California cabs. Smart service. Mains $26–$48.
Description
Category Features
Wheelchair Accessible: Yes
Bring your own bottle: Yes
Price Range: Dinner for more than $130
Editor's Star Rating: 3
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Portuguese, Chinese, Middle Eastern, Diner, Gastropub,