Frank
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416-979-6688
w: http://www.ago.net/frank
The large, gleaming installation by Frank Stella and a wall-length display of wine bottles add a little visual oomph to the AGO’s Douglas fir–panelled dining room, which feels sterile otherwise, as if it could all be disassembled tomorrow to make way for more gallery space. Thankfully, nothing holds the attention more than executive chef Anne Yarymowich’s thoughtfully executed, local, seasonal dishes with a distinctly Canadian sensibility. She converts a cellar’s worth of winter ingredients, including maple-roasted butternut squash and Royal Gala apples, into a dazzling composed salad with piquant aged cheddar, a bit of romaine, candied walnuts and apple cider vinaigrette. A perfectly cooked, tender veal strip loin and creamy lobster mashed potatoes make for a luxurious interpretation of surf and turf that might actually improve without its pungent truffled jus. Plump raisins and a brûléed sugar shell offer a lovely textural contrast to a velvety chai-spiced rice pudding made with an almost overpowering dose of cardamom. The affordable, ambitious, exclusively Canadian wine list is admirable; white wine served at room temperature is not. Mains $20–$31.
Description
Category Features
Wheelchair Accessible: Yes
Brunch: Yes
Price Range: Dinner for $90 - $130
Editor's Star Rating: 2
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