Four
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416-368-1444
It’s business as usual on Bay Street again. After the market closes, this sleek, subterranean spot fills with suits trading war stories. And with Devo, Foreigner and Duran Duran on the sound system, it’s like the heady, moneyed ’80s all over again (without the shoulder pads). Yet while excess might be the name of the game in the towers above, chef Matt Rosen’s menu is all about restraint—no menu item tops 650 calories. Edamame, sprinkled with powdered green tea and sea salt arrives piping hot, tender-crisp, and flavourful; pickled and raw beet salad with goat cheese is tasty, if unimaginative. Outrageously tender grilled calamari, perfectly charred in spots, sits in a tiny pool of fantastic, honeyed coriander sauce, sided by delicious, lightly dressed, crispy shallot adorned slaw. Smoked sable fish on edamame and sweet corn succotash is buttery and delicate, and a chicken breast with jasmine rice, apricots, tikka masala yogurt is grilled a smidgen too long, but rescued by the sweet and hot flavours on the plate. Fat is cut by focusing on grilling and broiling—there is no deep fryer in the open kitchen—and flavours are lifted with the liberal use of fresh herbs, citrus juices and bold spices. A decent wine list of biodynamic and organic wines is offered in 3 and 6 oz pours or by the bottle, and tiny desserts—lemon meringue, tiramisu, bumbleberry cheesecake—are 230 calories of yumminess, served in shot glasses. Casual yet efficient service. Mains $12—$25.
Description
Category Features
Wheelchair Accessible: Yes
Vegetarian: Yes
Bring your own bottle: Yes
Price Range: Dinner for $60 - $90
Editor's Star Rating: 1.5
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Brazilian, Midday, African, Argentinian, Bistro,