Colborne Lane
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416-368-9009
When Claudio Aprile was a one-restaurant chef, Colborne Lane was the most exciting place to dine in Toronto. Since he added the wildly popular Origin to his fold, there are signs the captain no longer has two firm hands on the wheel. Miso-glazed black cod, no matter how well-executed, was a cliché five years ago. Even a menu that used to dazzle like a 10-foot disco ball yields a few clunkers these days. A clear, candy-like isomalt sheet, laid over duck confit in a white bowl, is the canvas for Asian pear and brown butter powder. When a satiny squash soup is poured over it tableside, the melting disc renders the dish too sweet and in need of acid. Ruby-red tenderloin crudo covered in a haystack of crispy burdock root with pungent idiazábal cheese and tiny pickled mushrooms sparks a display of culinary fireworks. Lamb loin is cooked to that sweet spot between medium-rare and medium, the explosively juicy meat amped up by smoked-tomato sauce and purple basil cress. Handsome, preppy waiters go beyond the call of duty, anticipating every need and navigating the wine list with aplomb. It’s still an exciting restaurant, but as Aprile’s focus continues to be diluted by new projects, the flagship is in danger of running aground. Mains $29–$45.
Description
Category Features
Vegetarian: Yes
Price Range: Dinner for more than $130
Editor's Star Rating: 2.5
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Vietnamese, Gastropub, Southeast Asian, Colombian, International,