Centro
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416-483-2211
w: http://www.centro.ca
Centro reclaims its position among Toronto’s remaining handful of fine-dining restaurants. A quick facelift has simplified the look of the soaring room, with a brown-and-white colour scheme casting a masculine mood for the high-rolling regulars. There’s new bounce in the step of the veteran staff, thanks to the arrival of chef Jason Carter (Susur Lee’s long-time right hand), who brings discipline and creativity to every plate on the ever-fluctuating menu. On one visit, a seafood salad contains a harmony of textures: almost raw mussels, pinky-sized shrimp, scallops, lobster, a garnish of lobster coral. Perfect sweetbreads in a crust of ground basmati are paired with many onion preparations, a honey-vinegar glaze and dried orange zest subtly suggesting China. Carter also understands the power of simplicity. Chicken consommé is strikingly pure, with silky slivers of poached chicken, shaved shiitake mushroom, a fine brunoise of celeriac and shaved black truffle. A star-studded wine list has great depth in grands crus, Californians, champagne and digestifs. Mains $34–$40.
Description
Category Features
Vegetarian: Yes
Bring your own bottle: Yes
Price Range: Dinner for more than $130
Editor's Star Rating: 3.5
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Italian, Diner, International, American, Caribbean,