Canoe
[?]
416-364-0054
w: http://www.oliverbonacini.com/
The $1-million renovation this winter freshened up Oliver and Bonacini’s landmark 54th-storey room with a shimmering patchwork of copper foil on the back wall, elegant, Saarinen-esque pedestal tables with walnut tops, and a slightly hipper bar area that’s now backed by rows of antique canning jars that have been painted white and lit from within. The most exciting change, however, is to the menu: though it’s still rooted in refined Canadiana and still led by executive chef Anthony Walsh, it is more adventuresome and, for the most part, executed more skilfully than ever. It’s affirmation that Canoe is still among the very best restaurants in town. The “tongue to tail” duck is a standout and a brave step for a place that draws such a conservative crowd. The dish’s centrepiece is a round of screech-marinated foie gras torchon. The rest of the plate is what grabs you, though: there is battered duck tongue (it’s chewy but intriguing), a tiny duck heart that’s been sliced in two (it’s dense, dark red and just barely gamy), plus chunky, nicely seasoned duck rillettes, ably seared breast and buttery mousse. Even the caesar salad gets an offbeat treatment: there’s Japanese-style barbecued eel along with the house-cured anchovies and the other usual stuff (including a rare misstep: cold, pre-made croutons). The sturgeon is flaky and gently flavoured but as meaty-textured as pork, and is set over a nub of short rib, braised green cabbage for balance and a hill of truffled potatoes that are so light they seem to have been extruded from a whip canister. Well-served wine and a beer list that’s packed with rare gems. Mains $37–$45.
Description
Category Features
Wheelchair Accessible: Yes
Bring your own bottle: Yes
Price Range: Dinner for more than $130
Editor's Star Rating: 4
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Portuguese, Seafood, Argentinian, Out of Town, Vegetarian,