Canoe
[?]
416-364-0054
w: http://www.oliverbonacini.com/
The recent $1-million renovation freshened up Oliver and Bonacini’s landmark room with a shimmering patchwork of copper foil on the back wall, elegant, Saarinen-esque pedestal tables with walnut tops, and a slightly hipper bar area. The most exciting change, however, is to executive chef Anthony Walsh’s menu: it is more adventurous and, for the most part, executed more skilfully than ever. The “tongue to tail” duck is a standout and a brave step for a place that draws such a conservative crowd. The dish’s centrepiece is a round of screech-marinated foie gras torchon. The rest of the plate is what grabs you, though: battered duck tongue is chewy but intriguing, and a tiny duck heart that’s been sliced in two is dense and just barely gamy, plus nicely seasoned duck rillettes, ably seared breast and buttery mousse. Wine is well served, and the beer list is packed with rare gems. Mains $37–$49.
Profile by Client (Description)
Category Features
Wheelchair Accessible: Yes
Bring your own bottle: Yes
Price Range: Dinner for more than $130
Editor's Star Rating: 4
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