Brassaii
[?]
416-598-4730
w: http://www.brassaii.com
On a busy Saturday night, it’s hard to tell whether Brassaii is a restaurant or a club: three leggy hostesses work the door, house music thumps overhead, and shelves of Belvedere glow behind the bar. Coiffed and perfumed 30-somethings treat it like a holding pen before a night out on King West, but it’s worth going for the food alone. Chef Chris Kalisperas took the reins from departing Bruce Woods last spring and has given the menu a complete overhaul. A salad of beets, burrata, julienne endive, crushed walnuts and top-shelf olive oil would be more successful if it weren’t served fridge cold. The duck duo of succulent confit and rosy breast is accompanied by tangy braised cabbage, a creamy leek purée and a sweet-tart plum mostarda, which contrasts nicely with the rich, gamy bird. The wine list could use more pizzazz, but cocktails, especially a spicy spin on the margarita called the Mamacita, are first rate. Despite the party vibe, limited light and general cacophony, service is on point. Mains $20–$39.
Profile by Client (Description)
Category Features
Brunch: Yes
Bring your own bottle: Yes
Outdoor Dining: Yes
Price Range: Dinner for more than $130
Editor's Star Rating: 1.5
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