Amuse
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416-694-0004
The number of chefs who have passed through this three-year-old kitchen—four at last count—hasn’t fazed Amuse. It’s still the best place to eat in The Beach, a neighbourhood bereft of good dining. The newest chef, Alex Tso, who took over from Pat Riley, might be the best yet. He’s worked at Chez Victor, cooked for Jamie Kennedy, and done time at that famed shrine to locavore cooking, Chez Panisse in Berkeley, California. The room is busy, but Tso handles the open kitchen (with front-row seating at the counter) and concise menu like a Zen master—often all alone. His classical technique is nearly flawless: on one night, silken duck and goose liver mousse; a killer crystal-clear, flavour-packed shiitake consommé; and wobbly-inside, crusty-outside sea scallops. Duck breast is perfectly pink inside, with sour cherry glaze, scalloped potatoes and roasted root veg on the side. The flavours are rich and harmonious. He also makes all the desserts himself. A steamed lemon pudding with wild blueberry conserve and crème fraîche is light as air, tangy and simply wonderful. Chunks of frozen chocolate brownie suspended in frozen espresso mousse is cake and ice cream dialled up to 11. Mains $21–$30.
Description
Category Features
Bring your own bottle: Yes
Price Range: Dinner for $90 - $130
Editor's Star Rating: 2.5
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Thai, Midday, Out of Town, Colombian, Middle Eastern,