Universal Grill
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416-588-5928
w: http://www.universalgrill.ca/
Hiding in plain sight at the random corner of Dupont and Shaw, Universal Grill skates the line between distinguished dining and hipster homey. The ragged room is dotted with charming pre-war touches—Formica tables, thin wooden venetians and a deep-turquoise ceiling of embossed tin—while elevated comfort food nods to the American South and the Caribbean. The polenta is crispy on the outside, cloud-like on the inside. With roasted tomatoes, mushrooms and creamy goat cheese, it’s always a winner. The daily salad specials prove inconsistent. A winter beet, goat cheese and candied walnut salad inspires oohs and aahs, but a summer offering of tasteless tomato, bitter Ontario cucumber and too-young Asiago sorely misses the mark. Many chefs steer clear of pan-seared calf’s liver and onions, a classic but easily spoiled dish; Universal Grill’s version is smooth and succulent with caramelized Dijon onions and perfect roasted red potatoes. Baby back pork ribs, a house special, glisten in a sweet-spicy barbecue sauce that sticks to your fingers as the moist meat melts off the bone. Accompanying sweet potato fries taste as though they’ve been slow-roasted. Dessert sees a hard and fast fall from grace: crème brûlée that resembles scrambled eggs, and a chalky, bland brownie. Aloof service falls almost as flat as the desserts, moving in slow motion and seldom smiling. The inventive and well-made cocktails outshine the wine list; Ting-tinis (with Jamaica’s national soft drink) and Pekoe Juleps are best enjoyed on the front patio. Closed Monday. Mains $17–$26.
Description
Category Features
Brunch: Yes
Bring your own bottle: Yes
Outdoor Dining: Yes
Price Range: Dinner for $60 - $90
Editor's Star Rating: 1
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Greek, American, Portuguese, Cambodian, Steak,