Pastis Express
[?]
416-928-2212
Since changing gears from fine dining to bistro more than a decade ago, this sunny spot has served as an unofficial dining club for Rosedale’s older elite. On any given night, the room is full of mahogany tans, expensive smiles and three-olive martinis. Owner Georges Gurnon still works the floor, serving regulars personally, but the overall level of service isn’t as polished as it used to be: waiters are palpably flummoxed and rush in the crowded room. The straightforward menu of Gallic fare is reasonably priced, especially considering what this market can bear. (The steep, thought excellent wine list picks up the slack and pads the bill.) Fish soup is deeply flavoured, perfumed with anise and served with classic accouterments of croutons, gruyère and lemony rouille. Flawless frites can’t make up for duck confit that spends too long in the oven, rendering the bottom beef jerky tough, and a side salad that’s overdressed. A special of perfectly grilled halibut served on a sumptuous purée of rutabaga (a culinary highpoint for this much maligned root) shows the kitchen is capable of better. The inconsistency, however, carries over into dessert with excellent profiteroles with coffee ice cream and satiny chocolate sauce juxtaposed against an undercooked crème brûlée that’s closer in texture to crème anglaise. Mains $14-$24.
Description
Category Features
Vegetarian: Yes
Price Range: Dinner for $60 - $90
Editor's Star Rating: 1.5
Related
Related Listings
Related Tags
Other European, Portuguese, Mexican, Bar and Pub, Hotel,