Merlot
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416-236-0081
This cozy dining room in the Kingsway area of Bloor West fits the template for transplanted French bistro ambience. Chatty, honey-accented maître d’? Check. Servers in crisp aprons and ties? Check. Mismatched chairs, art gallery prints and homely-patterned dishware? Check. The traditional menu also seems to be modelled on the same by-numbers approach. Butter lettuce and radicchio accompany most starters, and chopped parsley makes an appearance on almost every dish. Beyond the template, though, there are some true gems. The onion tart is creamy and delicate, though it could do without the heavy chèvre topping. The duck confit is crisp-skinned, silky to the bone, expertly cooked and paired with crunchy roast potatoes that verge on sweet. The apple tart is excellent—thinly shaved fruit over unctuous pastry. A largely mature clientele packs the dining room on weekends for anniversaries and family fêtes, which means it can get loud. Mains $17–$23.
Description
Category Features
Outdoor Dining: Yes
Price Range: Dinner for $60 - $90
Editor's Star Rating: 1
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Spanish, Other Latin, El Salvadorian, Mediterranean, Bar and Pub,