Cowbell
[?]
416-849-1095
w: http://www.cowbellrestaurant.ca/
If ever a place existed where a young couple might not feel embarrassed to be wearing matching fur coats, Cowbell is it. At least, so felt the couple sitting near the bar one winter night, drinking red wine and taking periodic smoke breaks to help digest the copious amounts of bloody, fatty meat that is the joint’s stock in trade. Under the direction of chef-owner Mark Cutrara, the Parkdale restaurant is a carnivorous shrine to local meat, its blackboard menu mostly executed with precision. A charcuterie platter comes with house-cured sausage, salty-spicy pepperoni and delicious house-brined gherkins (the only odd inclusion is a stray, fishy-tasting smeltchovie). It’s a killer start (most doctors would say literally). The mains—impossibly tender red Angus beef, venison that’s not overly gamey—continue the trend. Both are blood-rare and juicy, simply seasoned and evidence of why Cutrara has earned his status as one of the city’s top chefs. The sides, though, are disappointing (uncooked kale, too-rich pork belly that seems like it should be a main on its own). The apple-maple sorbet for dessert, a house-made epitaph to a menu that’s a paean to local food, is sweet and flaky, and refreshing after everything heavy that came before it.
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Price Range: Dinner for $60 - $90
Editor's Star Rating: 2
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