Spencer's at the Waterfront

 

Diners driving to Burlington are rewarded with the scent of rosemary growing in the restaurant’s herb garden, a stunning view of Lake Ontario and excellent service. The plump Yukon Gold potato gnocchi float on a pea purée studded with asparagus and morels. The moist and delicate Lake Erie pickerel is overshadowed by buttery white asparagus risotto, spicy chorizo, briny octopus and fried lemon zest. Some desserts, like a bland custard on a layer of rhubarb jam and a too-hard graham cracker crust, are more for show, but an oozy date-and-banana sticky toffee pudding is sensational.