Ichiriki

 

There are five Japanese restaurants in Toronto that inspire slavish worship: Hiro, Kaji, Mye, Japango and Ichiriki. Chef Riki showcases impeccable knife skills and unbeatably fresh fish. Lightly charred beef tataki is meltingly tender. Urajiro—battered shiitake mushrooms packed with minced shrimp—are greaseless and fantastically earthy. Wakame is the real deal: delicate red and green algae fronds are tossed with a sweet vinaigrette and garnished with a lone tender shrimp. The sashimi shines—B.C. tuna melts on the tongue, and a thick cut of salmon is sweet and buttery-rich. The kitchen misfires with cooked dishes; fried breaded oysters taste like fish sticks. Omakase $38.