Centro

 

Centro has never aimed for innovation. Instead, its mandate is to wow with uncomplicated, beautifully executed continental standards and familiar ingredients. Luscious, fatty smoked salmon, plated with chopped egg and capers, is an haute take on Jewish deli food, and fragrant black truffle gilds a mound of thinly sliced bresaola with pear and slivered almonds. Earthy shiitakes, wild rice and sweet marsala elevate a ridiculously tender chicken Paillard. A side of green beans is buttery, tender-crisp perfection. Handmade capellini is topped with a mouth-watering tomato-basil sauce, but the pasta is overcooked and lukewarm. Still, when everything else is so close to perfect, this odd failing can be forgiven, especially with a crystal tulip of sparkling Moscato d’Asti in hand.