Ici Bistro

 

After building his reputation at vaunted dining destinations like Auberge du Pommier, chef J. P. Challet has finally relaxed. His corner spot is as laid-back as its Parisian bona fides, full of diners succumbing to the sedative effects of affordable French wine. The menu, however, is still exacting. Deep-fried gnocchi croquettes with merguez sausage inspire cravings—the sausage is succulent and the gnocchi are crispy outside and luscious inside. A ruby-rare steak tartare is out-dazzled by the fluffy pommes dauphines alongside. Other successes, like supple boeuf bourguignon and seared pickerel with velvety lemon beurre blanc, more than compensate for occasional misses, like a bland root vegetable and chèvre salad and overcooked crème brûlée.