Flat-screen TVs and kitschy Vietnamese knick-knacks give Pho Saigon a casual, fun ambiance. Efficient service ensures quick table turnover, even if orders are repeatedly mixed up. The enormous Saigon special appetizer hits high notes (deep-fried shrimp paste wrapped in yuba and tubes of grilled pork sausage) and low (the sugarcane shrimp and ground beef in betel leaves are perfunctory). Bun bo hue fares better: rice noodles swim with rafts of leathery beef shank, Vietnamese bologna and pork in an onion-rich beef consommé. Unlicensed.
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