At this decades-old Chinatown landmark, most faces are buried deep in steaming bowls of pho. Brimming with rice noodles, raw sirloin and succulent, fatty brisket, the broth has a beefy baseline, but it’s a bit greasy and is lacking the requisite cinnamon notes. Bun is a better choice, with cold vermicelli, iceberg lettuce, carrot and daikon topped with several piggy treats. A sweet-salty-sour nuoc mam dressing ties the whole dish together. A giant, eggy crêpe, made with coconut milk and rice flour, wraps around a filling of shrimp, pork, mung beans and bean sprouts; it’s good on its own, but even better when lashed with sriracha.
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