The return of Salad King in early 2011, just under a year after the restaurant was forced to abandon its crumbling original premises, was an exciting event for lovers of cheap Thai food. The bright room has a happy, caffeinated energy that’s even more fun than at the original place. You can still get your spicing on a scale from mild (none, essentially) to 20 (you’d best wear an adult diaper). While the deep-fried spring rolls don’t quite cut it—there’s not enough filling and too many layers of wrapper—the spicy squid, with kaffir lime leaves, sweet basil, bamboo shoots and bell peppers, contrasts a bit of sweet, a bit of sour, some earthy depth from fish sauce and plenty of chili spice. Tom yum goon soup is overly salty, and the shrimp taste like they’ve been in the freezer a bit too long.
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