The boisterous dining room, anchored by two hopping marble oyster bars and filled with the usual assortment of fishing-related bric-a-brac, regularly draws wine-swilling nine-to-fivers who’ve stopped in for a glass and a bite on their way home from work. As with most bivalve bars, Rodney’s biggest selling point is the enormous collection of unbeatably fresh oysters—meaty Kumamotos, salty Raspberry Points, briny kusshis. The rest of the seafood could use work. Coral-ringed scallops deserve a better fate than a sprinkle of bacon, a wisp of garlic and a miserly dash of salt. Ditto a steamed fillet of supple halibut that’s woefully underseasoned. A lemon mousse for dessert brings a light ramekin of fluffy, tart cream.
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