Diners call months ahead for a spot at the bar—the foodie equivalent of rinkside Leafs seats—to watch chef Mitsuhiro Kaji show off his impressive knife skills. His dishes (from a seven- or nine-course tasting menu) offer exquisite presentation and beautiful, clean flavours. An enchanting bite of bracken ohitashi, a Japanese fern nestled in a salty pool of fish broth, and a fluffy sea bream omelette bundled in a sheet of rice noodle are standouts. A tray of gleaming sashimi (including a still-twitching head of botan shrimp) proves that Kaji is still the city’s best sushi restaurant. Omakase $100–$120.
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