Chef Hiro Yoshida is a master of minimal, precise sushi. A slice of lean tuna is seasoned with a pungent sliver of black garlic and a hefty dose of wasabi; the first nibble is subtle, showcasing the freshness of the fish. The earthy garlic adds depth, and the wasabi erupts like a tiny Roman candle on the tongue. Cold-smoked salmon looks as unassuming as the shrink-wrapped grocery version, but it’s wondrously soft, flavourful and addictive. When Yoshida’s plates get complicated, though, quality can suffer. A quail bento box special—bringing smoked quail, hard-boiled egg, braised breasts and a quail-pumpkin fritter—sounds tantalizing, but tastes disappointingly one-note. For a place that charges $70 for an omakase menu, the room is disarmingly shabby.
Neighbourhood: St. Lawrence
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