The mom-and-pop trattoria seems like a quaint notion in an era when Italian restaurants are constantly one-upping each other with curing rooms, Enomatic wine dispensers and custom-built cheese caves. Twenty-six years in, Roberto and Lucia Martella still work the room like doting grandparents, topping up wine, clearing dishes and making sure you get your fill. The menu is refreshingly straightforward, with the best dishes coming off the grill, like a juicy, fennel-scented Berkshire pork sausage paired with a charred quail, crisp and pink at the joints.
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