Most guests have been coming to Grano since the restaurant opened 28 years ago: they all have a favourite seat (by the fountain in the covered courtyard, or in the candlelit main dining room among vintage posters of the old country) and a favourite pasta. The whole-wheat bigoli, cooked al dente and tossed in a mellow, rich walnut cream sauce, is terrific, as is the pork-packed cavatelli with sausage, pancetta and white beans in a thick tomato sauce. Involtino brings a tender chicken breast dressed with sage, pancetta and an oozing coat of mozzarella. The short dessert card includes the standards—good tiramisù, biscotti and gelato—as well as a sensational rum-soaked sponge cake with a fluffy ricotta centre and sweet marzipan shell. The exclusively Italian wine list is reasonably priced, with a few $500 splurges.
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