Few places encapsulate Toronto’s dining culture better than Buca. The subterranean room feels like the city’s most exquisite warehouse, ornamented with honey-hued filament bulbs, a glittering Carozza marble bar and whole animals curing in the open kitchen. Executive chef Rob Gentile and his team prepare some of the most original and intricate plates in the city. Black truffle shavings adorn ricotta-filled fried zucchini flowers—an appetizer described (accurately) by a neighbouring diner as “better than sex.” Creamy smoked burrata tops spicy pig’s-blood spaghetti with sausage and rapini. A sprinkling of fried parsley and botargo adds crunch to an olive oil-poached albacore tuna pizza. Soft-shell crab is the only miss, with sour sea-buckthorn berries overpowering the shellfish. Reserve at least two weeks in advance.
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