Table 17’s sister restaurant is a grown-up trattoria in an area known for stroller-friendly dining. Co-owner John Sinopoli honours his Italian roots with an inspired card of antipasti and scratch-made pastas. Baccala fritters are divine, their thin, crisp exteriors yielding gooey centres of salt cod, potato and béchamel. Casarecce, in a spicy-sweet sauce of stewed peppers, house-made sausage, fennel and tomatoes, makes a terrific main. Poised servers pour esoteric Italian wines.
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