Leslieville's noodle joint for grown-ups has understated decor, well-matched wines and more innovation on the menu than at the family-oriented spots nearby. Tender chunks of octopus are slightly charred and soaked in red wine before being pressed into sliceable terrine and topped with pungent cured black olives and intense bits of orange. Eight fat agnolotti hold cauliflower and escarole, sitting in a light leek broth; the pillows are soft but toothsome, the filling is lightly touched with Parmesan and the broth keeps the pasta moist but not sopping. Sweet endings include on-trend zeppole doughnut bits dusted with sugar and served with lovel warm caramel sauce, and a great lemon pudding that's both zippy and rich at the same time.
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