Chef Mark McEwan’s outpost in the Hazelton Hotel is as atmospheric as the caves of Lascaux—dark wood floors, high ceilings, furry silver wall panels—and it’s filled with the usual Yorkvillian crowd of expense-account diners and dopey-eyed daters. Sublime potato and truffle pierogies and moist, intensely savoury beef short rib are suitably decadent, as is a luscious slab of juicy, crackling-skinned pickerel served with triple-fried chips, romesco and fennel purée. A whimsical dessert parfait stacks three ice creams (dulce de leche, chocolate and vanilla) with pop rocks.
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