The moneyed young, and the suspiciously young-looking, still treat celebrity chef Mark McEwan’s seven-year-old Yorkville hotel-restaurant as their clubhouse—though the menu, unlike the patrons, is showing a little wear. Seafood linguine doesn’t have enough chili kick—nor blue crab, nor tiger shrimp—to seduce to the bottom of the bowl. Thankfully some plates, like perfectly pink smoked lamb loin slices with soft, pan-browned gnocchi, are excellent. The drinks list is recreational reading for some (an entire page of champagnes) but on-tap wines from Vineland and house bottlings of Niagara white and red are gracious bespoke touches.
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