Bloor West between Bathurst and Spadina is a perilous place to open a restaurant. How many once-promising places have disappeared from this strip? How many ambitious restaurateurs have had their hopes dashed and bank accounts depleted? Country Style Hungarian is an exception: a decades-old landmark that still serves the city’s most soulful, satisfying Eastern European comfort food. There isn’t a bad dish on the menu. The hearty goulash holds ribbons of celery, potato carrot and tender chunks of beef flank in a thyme-scented broth. Potato and old cheddar pierogies sit beneath a mountain of crunchy fried onions; dollops of sour cream and vinegary coleslaw cut through the heaviness. Juicy wiener schnitzel is fried to perfection and served with fluffy, spaetzle-like dumplings doused in a paprika-spiced gravy. House-made vanilla custard makes a comparatively light, elegant dessert.
Country Style Hungarian
Neighbourhood: The Annex
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